Hi, I'm Jan from iDoc.
In this video, I'll show you how to replace the backlight for your iPhone 7's display.
You have to replace it if, for example, the backlight isn't working and is very weak.
You may also need to if 3D Touch stops working, because the 3D Touch technology is integrated into the backlight.
In this case, we're replacing the backlight for a totally different reason.
The backlight in our iPhone 7 is working, but the Home button stopped working, and the connection cable from the Home button to the logic board goes through the backlight.
To replace the Home button cable, you have to replace the entire backlight unit.
You can watch a video guide to replacing your iPhone 7's display on our YouTube channel or use the step-by-step photo guide on our website, idoc.eu.
Now I've removed the display. In our case, the Home button cable isn't working.
You can clearly see that it's torn. Now we want to replace this cable.
Because it goes through the backlight, we're going to replace the entire backlight.
I've removed the display from the iPhone 7. I've also prepared the display.
I've removed the rear panel, the Home button, the earpiece and the cable set up here next to the earpiece.
Now we can see the backlight's rear panel. We have to remove it.
The 3D Touch and several pieces of film are right under it. We have to remove them one step at a time.
The backlight's glued in place, not screwed in. I use hot air to detach it.
We heat the backlight's frame so we can gradually take it off.
We have to disconnect the contact before we can remove the backlight.
The contact for the backlight is under this little sticker, which we carefully remove with a pair of tweezers.
To make things a little easier, I use a piece of tape to stick the cable to the backlight. Then I can desolder the contact down here.
Now we disconnect the backlight's contacts, which are soldered to two ribbon cables here.
I use the soldering iron and tweezers to grip the smaller ribbon cable and then heat the contacts.
Now I've desoldered the cable. I remove the tape to detach the ribbon cable.
Because the backlight's glued on and not screwed in, we have to detach the glue.
I use a little spudger and a heat gun to detach the glue.
I heat the edge at about 190°C (374°F). Using the spudger, I carefully pry up the backlight from underneath, pushing it gently.
I gradually detach the backlight while heating the glue.
Two of the ribbon cables are glued together here.
Now I also heat the ribbon cables with hot air so I can carefully separate the cables.
To make it easier, I attach the cable to the table.
Now I heat the cable again. Using the tweezers, I carefully try to separate it from the second flexible flat cable.
You can feel the glue heating up. I gradually continue inserting the tweezers.
Now we've detached all the glue from the two ribbon cables and the backlight's frame. Now we can take off the entire backlight.
We've removed the back of the backlight. To make it easier, I keep the flexible flat cable taped to the table for now.
In the first layer, we can already see the LEDs that light up the backlight.
We have to take off one layer at a time and be really careful.
I use a scalpel and pointed tweezers. Starting in one corner, I carefully lift the first layer.
This layer's also glued on at the top. I try to just take it off. It comes off a little,
but the glue's still too strong so we use some hot air.
We've removed the first layer so we carefully move on to the second one.
It's also really glued on, so I use the hot air again.
When I was heating the last layer, the next one started to come loose, too. This time I start in another corner and carefully pull on it.
We have to be really careful with this layer because the actual LCD is right below it.
The back of the LCD is metalized using evaporation so it's a very thin layer. We have to be careful not to damage it.
We shouldn't even scratch it or touch it with our fingers.
The layer came off pretty well. We still have to take a little glue off these edges and then we can install the new backlight.
We didn't leave any fingerprints so we can put in the new backlight. I've already prepared it.
The backlight is self-adhesive. We just have to pull off the protective film down here.
I carefully position the backlight at the lower edge where the Home button is,
then guide it past the retaining brackets and just drop it into the display. Then I can press it on at the edges.
The new backlight's glued in, so let's test it.
We have to resolder the contacts first.
I use the rear panel to help me protect the new backlight a little.
To make soldering easier, I use another piece of tape to hold the flexible flat cable in place.
Now I put flux on both cables.
Then I take the cable from the backlight, position it and solder the first contact to keep the cable in position.
Then I solder the other three contacts.
Now the backlight's soldered on. To make sure we didn't make any mistakes or cause short circuits, let's use a multimeter to check the individual contacts.
The multimeter's working, so now we test all the contacts.
I take the first one and connect it to the second one. We don't hear anything, so that's good.
I take the second one and connect it to the third one, then connect the third one to the fourth one. We don't hear anything so we didn't cause any short circuits.
Just to make sure, I also put the sticker back on.
It's just insulation to keep the contacts from touching any other components that might be conductive.
Then I also remove the pieces of tape and the rear panel I was using to help me solder.
The backlight's installed, but I want to test it before we put everything back together.
Because our Home button cable is defective, I also temporarily install the button so we can test it at the same time.
Now the display's ready for the test. I also connected the Home button so we test it, too.
I only leave out the earpiece and rear panel for the test.
I take the display and connect the first contacts and then the battery contact so we can start up the device.
For the test, I just carefully set the display on top and start up the iPhone.
The Apple logo appears, so the backlight's working.
As soon as the device has started up, we test the whole screen and of course the Home button.
The iPhone's started up. Now we'll test the display and Home button.
First I check whether the touch function's working right. Looks good.
I also test the brightness. The settings work perfectly.
Then I test 3D Touch, which is also working.
Then I go to the settings to test the Touch ID.
I add a finger. It detects the finger, so Touch ID is working.
Then I test whether the Home button's working, which it is.
We've successfully replaced the backlight and repaired the iPhone 7. The Home button and Touch ID are working again.
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