Chủ Nhật, 30 tháng 4, 2017

Youtube daily Apr 30 2017

US.

RIGHT NOW, IT'S LEADING TO A

TORNADO WATCH THROUGH AREAS OF

LOUISIANA.

IT'S A TEMPERATURE TREND THAT'S

GOING TO BE UP AND DOWN OVER THE

NEXT COUPLE OF DAYS.

VERY SPRINGLIKE.

TODAY MID 50'S.

THE COASTLINE A BIT COOLER AS WE

TOP OUT IN THE LOWER 50'S.

TOMORROW NEAR 60 DEGREES.

IT'S A GRADUAL WARM-UP WHICH IS

WHERE WE SHOULD BE, WHICH IS 61.

HEADING INTO TUESDAY, A BRIEF

LITTLE WARM-UP.

IT'S SHORT-LIVED.

WITH SHOWERS FILLING IN FOR THE

REST OF THE WORK WEEK,

TEMPERATURES WILL GET COOLED

DOWN AND BACK DOWN INTO THE

50'S.

RIGHT NOW, IT'S RELATIVELY CLEAR

AND QUIET AS YOU'RE HEADING OUT

THE DOOR THIS MORNING.

IT'S A BEAUTIFUL SUNRISE.

THAT'S GOING TO LEAD US INTO

BEAUTIFUL CLEAR SKIES THROUGH

THE REST OF THIS MORNING.

BY THIS AFTERNOON, CHANGES ARE

HEADING OUR WAY.

CLOUDS FILTER IN FROM THE WEST,

AND THEY'RE GOING TO CONTINUE TO

PUSH EASTWARD THROUGH THE

MIDAFTERNOON.

WITH ALL THESE CLOUDS MOVING

THROUGH, IT'S GOING TO BE A

THICK CLOUD DECK.

THAT COULD PRODUCE A SPRINKLE OR

TWO.

NOT LOOKING TO BE MUCH, BUT

SOMETHING THAT'S GOING TO FILTER

IN FROM THE WEST.

THE BEST CHANCE OF SEEING THIS

IS INLAND, AREAS WEST OF 495.

BUT THAT WILL TRY TO PUSH

EASTWARD THROUGH THE EVENING AND

INTO TOMORROW MORNING AS WELL.

YOU CAN SEE THAT.

11:00, A FEW SPRINKLES MOVING

THROUGH EVEN FOR DOWNTOWN

BOSTON.

TOMORROW MORNING, HEADING OUT

THE DOOR, THERE'S THAT SPRINKLE

ACTION DEVELOPING.

TEMPERATURES ARE 50'S ALONG THE

COASTLINE.

INLAND, THAT'S WHERE WE'RE

SEEING 40'S.

49 IN SPRINGFIELD.

CONCORD AT 42 DEGREES.

QUITE A BIT COOLER BECAUSE OF

THOSE CLEAR SKIES.

BUT AS WE HEAD INTO THE

AFTERNOON, IT'S THESE COOL SPOTS

INLAND THAT ARE GOING TO BE THE

WARMEST TODAY.

HIGHS ARE REACHING TOWARD 60

DEGREES THIS AFTERNOON.

NOTHING COMPARED TO THOSE MID

80'S OF YESTERDAY.

BUT IT'S THAT EASTERLY WIND

THAT'S GOING TO KEEP OUR COASTAL

LOCATIONS COOLER AS WE TOP OUT

IN THE LOWER 50'S.

52 HIGH FOR BOSTON.

TONIGHT DROPPING DOWN INTO THE

40'S.

43 IN WORCESTER.

BOSTON AT 45.

WE'LL SEE THAT CHANCE OF A FEW

SPRINKLES MOVING THROUGH, WHICH

OUR FUTURECAST IS PICKING UP ON.

SOMETHING WE'LL BE TRACKING

THROUGH THE MORNING COMMUTE AS

WELL.

NOTHING IN THE WAY OF HEAVY

RAINFALL.

JUST SOME OF THAT NUISANCE

DRIZZLE THROUGH MUCH OF THE

MORNING HOURS WITH HEAVY CLOUDS.

BY THE AFTERNOON, SOME OF THOSE

CLOUDS BREAK UP.

WE SEE THAT SUN TRYING TO MAKE A

RETURN.

BY TOMORROW NIGHT, WE'RE BACK AT

IT WITH ANOTHER ROUND OF SHOWERS

EXPECTED.

HERE'S A LOOK AT THE TRACK OF

THOSE SHOWERS.

I MENTIONED SOME OF THAT MORNING

DRIZZLE.

SUN TRIES TO BREAK THROUGH IN

THE AFTERNOON.

THERE'S THOSE HEAVY SHOWERS

MOVING IN FOR LATE TOMORROW

NIGHT INTO TUESDAY.

THAT'S GOING TO PLAY A PART WITH

OUR TEMPERATURES AS WE DO START

TO GRADUALLY WARM INTO THE 70'S

ON TUESDAY.

BY WEDNESDAY, THAT COOL AIR

WRAPS BACK AROUND.

WE'RE DOWN INTO THE 60'S AND

EVEN THE UPPER 50'S THROUGH THE

END OF THE WORKWEEK.

SEVERAL MORE ROUNDS OF SHOWERS.

A STORM SYSTEM FOR THURSDAY AND

For more infomation >> Video: A Cooler Ending To The Weekend - Duration: 2:54.

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Bahubali 2 Actors Salary 2017 - Duration: 3:02.

Bahubali 2 Actors Salary 2017

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Outcast 2x04 Promo "The One I'd Be Waiting For" (SUB ITA) - Duration: 0:31.

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Amazing Cakes Decorating Tutorials | Cake Style 2017 | The Most Satisfying Cake Decorating Video - Duration: 10:08.

Thanks for watching

Hope you have a great time

Please, like, comment and subscribe for more!!

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-------------------------------------------

HOW TO COOK SHRIMP SCAMPI WITH COGNAC | Dad's Recipe | ITALY UNEXPLORED Exclusive Footage - Duration: 6:04.

Welcome to

Vincenzo Plate on the Beach we are here at san vito

behind us

you can see a classic Abruzzese trabocco with this beautiful location on the water we are making a

beautiful dish than my dad loves to make an

antipasto Giusto antipasto Comedian os antipasto scampi al cognac so prawns with cognac

So let's see what we need to make shrimp scampi with cognac so we need extra virgin olive oil cognac a glass of white wine fresh parsley

video Cherry Tomatoes Rosemary onion

And of course chill if you like it the most important ingredient of course is the shrimp we got scampi from the adriatic sea

So now you put another mount of extra virgin olive oil in the pain

The look a bit of detective virtual diwali when the oil is nice and warm you put up onion and you cut into small pieces

And now you put beautiful cherry tomatoes, not in Jews if we are using about 12 of them

I

Scented with the Knives rosemary inside as fresh rosemary from my grandmother garden you to give that beautiful face to the soul

Hey guys, can you believe where we are look at this location? We're in the world you can do this. Thanks to Luciano

They were here on this boat having nice time to put this camp inside I

Gotta go a couple of to pressure

like a smelly idiotic water I

German Bois De Vino Bianco ah

The one is also premiere from Zaccagnini winery

Poughkeepsie Cody Salema problem Pete Seeger Al Nostro Bae Chuja s Aburrido estate so in this

case [efficient]

Because we are using one kilo of prawns. We're going to add 50 Ml of cognac the Cornet will give the nice taste to it

Now we need to cover this for about five minutes, but you can't open it at all. That needs to be nice and locked I

Can smell the Cognac plus the smell of the sea 00?

Come here and experience abruzzo with us

it's a pleasure to cook for you and your friends

Now we're ready to open

here we have an explosion of aromas an explosion of

Flavors Flavors of the adriatic Sea thank you so much dad and now it's time to serve this shrimp scampi with cognac

Made by Paolo Let's go

Piata Pronto, bye Hasta Gracia, I have to say my daddy's is the master. I'm actually

Saying sorry if I said something before it was in my scrubber

305 Familia Como demand you teach me how to read it as well. I do cook a lot read in people location

Oh my [garden] everyone good at that

Yo, man, trabuco what you scream? Hey, or a two-man [job] Vincenzo's played all those plate. I would say ah

So there you have it our first day filled with delicious food laughter and a couple of absolute must-see

Destinations wait until you see the unexplored spots we reveal next

after a beautiful day of swimming in San vito dead cooking some video games can be

pasta and relaxing and time for us to

Go, and it is the way with me today ah just

Filling up the bedroom here are the photos [Risa] go pescara?

Bye guys every day

RoTc the road eat every day. He has a visual important

chance of Rain amid reason just began

Donkey on the Loop Italian

For more infomation >> HOW TO COOK SHRIMP SCAMPI WITH COGNAC | Dad's Recipe | ITALY UNEXPLORED Exclusive Footage - Duration: 6:04.

-------------------------------------------

Ăn 2 Món Này Ngực Nép Đến Mấy Cũng Tăng Vù Lên Mấy cm - Duration: 3:31.

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Model Finishes & Painting Techniques | Video Workbench - Duration: 54:40.

welcome to the video workbench classic series instructional video

model finishes and painting techniques

what's the first thing you see when you look at the model finish now creating

attractive attention model finishes is easier than ever and as a special bonus

you get complete airbrush instructions from an airbrush compressor and applying

paint radio model cars armor or aircraft this video is packed with must have

detail every modeler needs

originally produced in 1992 the techniques using this deal still cover

everything you need to get going with your model kit the examples shown here

really haven't changed too much there is no definitive way of building a model

kit everyone has their own way of doing things and with time so will you

this video teaches dozens of useful tips no matter what your skill level

including what I consider that three important keys of model kit building

tips tools and techniques I would like to talk a little bit about the

instructor in this video is a former United States Air Force guy here who

made extensive use of his models and photography during his military career

he has used his mouth photos for intelligence briefings and often fool

experienced officers as market photographs have appeared in trade

magazines such as the journal the International plastic model of society

and finds you modeler just to name a few

i hope i watching this video that you walk away with a better knowledge of how

to safely and correctly assemble a plastic model kit along with happy found

or coming back into a hobby that is very fun and rewarding thank you and enjoy

hello and welcome to video work bench model finishes and painting techniques

I'm your host Chuck Davenport my boy and I are here building one of these

marvelous little snap take its course at his age but the most he's able to do is

put the wheels together and apply these cells stick decals but you're probably

at the point where quality and accuracy of you finish are very important and if

that's the case my boy and I have a video for you ok what's next year we

have to put the wheels on here listen to him snap 123

to demonstrate techniques of the TV award-winning finishes will cover

surface detailing weathering and applying decals much of the finished

work I do is accomplished with an airbrush so let's cover that topic first

for most of my painting I'll be using Tosh brand airbrushes this is a simple

external mix single-action device which allows you to control only the air flow

with this push button volume is controlled with a variable nozzle

interchangeable tips give you more flexibility in the size of the spray

pattern this external mixed double action posh airbrush allows you to

control booth air flow and volume with one button check with your local hobby

shop there are a number of different brands available ranging from 10 to $15

all the way up into the hundreds airbrush is a very delicate instruments

and require special care keep viewers spotlessly clean even minut amounts of

pigment can clog your airbrush and drive you to distraction I clean mine with

lacquer thinner disassembling the brush and cleaning the parts with pipe

cleaners as an option you can store your tips and thinner

industrial such as ek to clean your brush if your brushes rubber seals it

soon won't after Nek gets to them in the heat of battle you may not have the time

to disassemble the airbrush in this case you can get away with sprained solvent

through the tip and cleaning the cup make sure you go from light to dark

colors to minimize the effects of pigment contamination and don't do this

too much plan your work and make time to clean the tool properly there are a

number of air sources available such as cans of compressed air available at your

local hobby shop or Walmart compressors like this old when I use cost about $100

if you're in the hobby for the duration I would encourage purchasing a

compressor a simple holding tank made from a propane bottle helps to smooth

out the airflow a water trap is absolutely essential water mixed in with

pigment will ruin finish this particular device incorporates a pressure regulator

and was purchased at a national hardware chain store for under $40 I live in

Georgia where humidity is a real problem so I also have an inline water trap

airbrush is a very versatile tool and will accept a wide range of paints

including acrylics lacquer and enamel the new acrylic or water-based paints

are environmentally friendly but you have to be very careful about mixing and

surface preparation lacquer based paint dry quickly but can attack plastic if

used improperly and animals are the easiest to work with but because of

their long working time you really have to be concerned with protecting the

finish from tests while driving rather than trying to explain the benefits or

drawbacks of a specific brand I will explain my preferences as I go along the

final choice of course is yours

the key to an award-winning finish its surface preparation

the surface must be perfectly smooth free of pits scratches or surface

blemishes I went polish the surface with 600 grit sandpaper after working out

scratches with course regrets you can check the fidelity of your work with a

light coat of gray or aluminum primer the paint reveals any flaws these can be

filled with putty your favorite brand likely contains toluene which allows the

body to bond with the primer so you don't have to remove paint in order to

add more party once you're satisfied with the service you can move on

preparing our model for painting by masking off appropriate areas artists

risk it is great for demarcation lines but inadequate for compound curves

masking tape can be cut to adhere to curves but you must burnish the edge to

keep paint from seeping under canopies can be masked with Scotch tape scored

the table a sharp knife and remove tape from canopy frames so that these can be

painted if you are building an airplane windows in the fuselage can be filled

with a thin mixture of white blue water and a couple drops of dishwashing liquid

after this dries it acts as a mask my absolute favorite primer is flow cool

grey primer available in their railroad range of colors mixed the primary with

lacquer thinner 60% gray and 40% thinner you can use measuring cups or eye

droppers just keep the basic mix consistent for almost all airbrush work

I do I start with this basic mix and then I strain the paint into the cup to

remove clumps of pigment and other impurities oh by the way the strainer is

really high tech sections of old pantyhose test your basic mix

each paint has unique characteristics try to use fresh paint to minimize the

effects of aging on the pigment such a compressor at about 40 pounds of

pressure and test the spray if it comes out in clumps or spatters it's too thick

add a drop of thinner if it's praising streaks it's too thin at a drop of paint

keep testing to the point where you get a smooth even spray there is a direct

relationship between air pressure and pain viscosity at forty pounds of

pressure the basic 6040 mix is a good starting point however if your air

source puts out less pressure you will need to thin the paint even further for

the purposes of the video my mixes and pressures are based on the use of a

compressor with a regulator mount your model or parts with toothpicks downs

bent wire anything to allow you to pay the peace without handling it is

handling is a must do so with disposable gloves available at pharmacies the model

must be free of oil and grease so I give it a rub down with a clean white towel

moistened with mineral spirits or paint thinner just prior to every painting or

clear coat I wipe the part lightly with the tack rag to remove last traces of

dust I like local grey primer so well because it bans permanently to plastic

by attacking a chemically to keep from crazy and distorting the smooth surface

of the plastic missed on several barrier coats after you lightly covered the

model you can come back with one or two wet coats remember to spray at an angle

to help spray away any unseen dust particles if you use a thick primary

such as that from a spray kin you may need to gently scribe panel lines to

restore detail covered by the primer if you use for local great primer the paint

will dry quickly enough so that you can complete the process in one session

however let the primer dry for a day then go back and check for any further

flaws or imperfections these must be sent it out and then we primed just can

be a time-consuming and largely boring process but for any model in any scale

it's an absolute necessity to get an award winning finish what's the part

with 1000 grit sandpaper a light touch is called for

especially around the edges the idea is to obtaining a smooth finish on the

primer try the model periodically and check for rough spots don't hurry

remember you get out what you put in

remember that the bane of the model painter is airborne dust and chemical

odors if you don't have an elaborate spray and dust removal system a simple

cardboard box and a three-stage air cleaners such as this one from VA

environmental marketing will do the trick

the 18 scale Tamiya by motor motorcycle I'll demonstrate techniques that I learn

from master modeler and friend Pat covert from Birmingham Alabama on how to

achieve unbelievable gloss finishes from either a spray can or an airbrush if

you're in automotive modeler this is the finish for you I'll be using tackle

gloss white enamel in a basic 6040 mix and forty pounds of pressure technique

start and finish brain outside the park hold your airbrush about 6 to 10 inches

from the part and adjust the novel can deliver a fine mist mist on several

light coats allowing the paint to dry for 20 minutes in a dust-free area don't

try to cover the primary and one code used at least three missed cuts spray

undersized and other parts the same color you use the same techniques with

spray cans except that an animal paint out of a can seems to spray better when

it's warm so the candid about three inches of hot water for five minutes

also hold the can tend to 12 inches from the surface to be sprayed since you

can't control the flow of paint as well as an airbrush paint parts with compound

curves one section at a time taking pains to keep the coverages even as

possible the hard part that requires practice and patience is applying the

wet coats the idea is to achieve a deep gloss finish too little paint results in

orange peel and too much results in runs keep a strong light off to the side to

check for gloss if you're using an airbrush

you want to open the nozzle to increase the paintball you you several passes to

build an even gloss and check your work to ensure you achieve an even plus the

biggest mistake people make is not allowing enough time between coats let

you paint set up in a dust-free environment for 30 to 45 minutes in

order to achieve that super gloss finish you're going to have to apply up to four

wet coats follow your last gloss coat immediately with clear gloss let this

setup for 40 minutes then follow with two more clear gloss coat allowing

forty-minute setup times between coats after the last clear code let the paint

cure and a dust-free environment for ten days

yes that's right 10 days work on sub-assemblies

another model go mow the lawn just leave that paint alone for ten days so that it

can cure properly

can be found at Auto Supply stores when all is just one of a number of polishes

you can use on your model check with your local hobby dealer for more

suggestions if you finished up with a slick paint job you can start with a

four or six thousand grit if you have a rougher surface or one with slight

ripples start with 2402 3600 grit sand dry so that you can monitor the progress

of your work

wrap the measure around the block provided in the kid and start sandy use

a light touch and sand in strokes not circles the first grits will dull your

finish greatly don't be alarmed you will notice the course grits taken the

ripples out of the paint leaving the glossy low spots continue sandy until

the surface is uniformly dull gradually work your way up to 12,000 grit at which

point you will be amazed at the quality of your finish apply a tiny dot of went

off to a warm rag and polish I stay away from cotton because the weave acts more

like sandpaper I prefer went off because it polishes and waxes at the same time

if you use straight polish you will want to finish the job with a fine quality

wax such as the treatment detail wax available at hobby shops if you intend

to add water transfer decals you need to stop just prior to adding additional

clear coats remember that decals must always be applied to a glossy surface

regardless of whether it's a car a tank and they're playing or whatever to apply

water transfer decals you need a pair of scissors tweezers a soft brush a dish of

clean warm water and a decal setting solution

your decals out a gesture model so that the service you want to work is

accessible dip your dick Alen warm water for about 10 seconds

remove it and let the water drain on a towel for about another 10 seconds

test the decal it should slide easily if not dip it once more for another 10

seconds

moisten the parts lightly with water slide decal off and position it with a

brush you may need to hold small decals with tweezers carefully blot excess

water away with the town taking care not to move the decal it never fails use a

moistened brush to smooth out bubbles and wrinkles now let the decal set for

about 10 minutes you can move on to other decals decal setting solution

allows the decals to adhere closely to the surface and any surface detail test

a scrap piece before using the solution apply the solution with brush to the

entire decal surface don't be alarmed what happens to the decal and don't try

to touch your position and you will ruin it just let it dry for a day if as in

the case of the ten-year Bimota motorcycle you have decals that made to

former Finnish make sure you overlap them about one millimeter to account for

shrinkage this will give a smooth unbroken finish lets the decals of dried

you can resume with a glass overcoat sanding and polishing treatment that I

described earlier resume with the glass overcoat sanding and polishing treatment

you'll be amazed at the depth of the finish and the Glasgow will completely

hide the clear decal film this technique for achieving super gloss finishes

requires patience and attention to detail but the results are well worth it

in a contest the first thing the judges notices to finish you can have loads of

scratch built detail in the model but that doesn't necessarily guarantee a

winner

a model executed cleanly and simply with us stand out finish will be the winner

let me assure you that these painting techniques work equally well for

automotive lacquers fingernail polish acrylics or just about anything else

that can be put on plastic or metal a word of warning though don't mix acrylic

paint with enamel or lacquer paint you can spray acrylic over enamel or lacquer

primer be very careful spraying lacquer over an animal it can damage the paint

but an animal goes over lacquer quite well I highly recommend testing your

paints on pieces of scrap before you work on the model

let's talk about making your own decals often you will need decals were none are

available I needed some cock pit nomenclature for this P forty cockpit

it's as simple as buying a sheet of clear decal film from your local hobby

shop and creating the artwork on a typewriter or desktop computer with a

laser printer reduce your artwork to the size needed on a reducing copy R Us

section of clear decal on the correct side and position of the sheet of paper

that will be run through the copier

you now have a reduced copy of your artwork on clear decal still put a coat

of clear lacquer or enamel on top of the decal and let it dry the beauty of this

technique is that for a few dollars and the color copier you can create or

reproduce virtually any color artwork and make it into a decal are things to

IP most director local chapters Bruce rate above for this useful tips

especially combat aircraft you need to decide up-front whether the aircraft

will appear as it did when it rolled out of the factory or at some time during

field service wartime and field service subjects the aircraft to various degrees

of wear and tear also do your homework to determine the correct colors for your

camouflage scheme museums books magazines shows and other modelers such

as those night PMS are valuable sources for this type of information I often add

bare metal four panels to various parts of the aircraft this helps to add some

diversity to the otherwise uniformed services of a model cut a piece slightly

oversized and burnished with a q-tip or a dry transfer burn assure available at

art supply stores on compound curves apply the foil to the high side of the

curve and work outwards finally cut and trim the excess

finished begins with proper surface preparation and priming washed the parts

sand the part smooth apply your primer and the primary smooth to get added

depth to the camouflage game highlight panel lines with flat black using a 64

remix forty pounds of pressure and a fine spray a three-by-five card access a

mask using the color scheme from the Ministry of small aircraft production

decal she values Humbrol paint to cover the sides and undersides light blue once

again begin with the basics 6040 mix and forty pounds of pressure don't try to

cover and one coat spray three light coats to get basic coverage then add

paint where necessary to blend the black panel detailing in begin masking for the

final camouflage colors I'll use masking tape to mask the leading edges of flying

services trailing edges are covered with artists risk it to prevent overspray

cover the remaining areas with tape and paper on this aircraft the lines between

different colors with soft which is to say darker colors were lightly feathered

at the edges where they met lighter colors to achieve this effect the mask

line needs to lie slightly above the surface of the model to help simulate

the uneven edge I tore a piece of card and taped it in place

spray your first camouflage color 60 40 minutes forty pounds of pressure I'm

using home rose brown violet build the color using a fine spray you should

still see the very faint outline of the black panel lines I'm partial to humble

because of its fine pigment but I have to give a plug the guns he saying you

and their superlative aqueous color range using cards cut to size hold each

one in place and spray up to the card use a fine spray 60 40 minutes

forty pounds of pressure and build the final coat with the intention of finally

feather in the edges in this case the color is homegirls dark green in order

to achieve the modeling so characteristic of Luftwaffe aircraft

will change the mixture ratio and pressure settings once again the ability

to regulate air pressure will prove very helpful in creating different effects

and there are at least three methods of appliance soft model camouflage one

involves making elaborate masks and the other requires delicate brushwork and

oils by far the easiest is airbrushing using a 40 60 mix meaning 40% pigment to

60 percent thinner 15 pounds of pressure and a fine spray test the pattern on a

piece of card before committing yourself to the model once satisfied with your

tests spray small irregular patterns of brown violet then switch colors and do

the same for dark green the spray should be so fine that you have to build color

finish off other color details such as writer and spinner then let the pain

cure for a couple of days

inspect the finish for any flaws and correct these with a light sanding and

restrain white the tack rag and give a good coat of clear gloss testers glass

code works well apply decals as described earlier

keep in mind that during field use many factory stencil markings were

obliterated after frequently paintings and touch-ups once complete protect the

decals with a code of testers dull coat

now the real work begins whether in an aircraft is a slow process that demands

attention to detail and certain fitness overdone it can look very bad but

applied with subtlety and restraint weathering can be most effective in

telling the story of an individual machine this detail to execute his panel

detail simply use a number to mechanical pencil very sharp to pencil in panel

detail I have seen ink used but I don't care for the technique too much it's not

very subtle

spray the area behind the exhaust stack will define miss the flat black build

the painter so that the black aids in two aircraft color the further back you

go

dark grey pastel powder

the wing walk and cockpit rail frequently had paint worn off to achieve

this effect use a section of soft cloth wrapped around a Q-tip tip this in

artists metallic powder aluminum here

rub this aluminum out on a scrap service still nothing but a dull black smudge

remains on the clock now dry brush the walkway and rail until the desired

effect is achieved often leading edge paint was worn away due to the action of

airflow combined with dirt and dust sort of a sand blasting effect this too can

be simulated with aluminum dust paint frequently chipped off and other areas

too so dry brush flat aluminum on selected areas of the leading edges of

flying services spenders panels and cockpit frames you can also scrape small

bits of pain away from the areas covered with bare metal foil remember don't

overdo it even with larger subjects field conditions were not conducive to

clean aircraft light-colored services would get dingy quickly use earthtone

pastel powders to remove the fresh paint look from the aircraft hinge joints

around runners elevators and ailerons can be given an appearance of depth with

a bit more pastel powder

will prevent the paint underneath from being weathered in this case mix some

paint color with pastel chalk and dry brush the clear decal film a steady hand

is needed

build the effect gradually no matter if you get paint on the decal in many cases

national markets were painted on the aircraft and suffered the same effects

of weather and don't forget wheels since ww2 aircraft often operated off of grass

field you can use earth tone pigments to build up layers of mud or you can mix

passed up powders with a dab of white glue and with water

favorite technique of contests caliber modelers is to use a toothbrush to spray

earthtone pigments on the undersides that might normally be spread by wheels

in actual service check your sources aircraft leaked oil the airstream causes

it to streak along the fuselage a small dot of artists Inc from a repeal graph

Penn Street with your finger does a nice job of simulating those oil streaks

there are many other details you can add to your model it's a matter of taste

time and money a word of caution though many of these weathering effects of

perishable so protect your model from dust and handle it carefully now let's

move on to another finish that gives modelers fits natural medal

finishes remove all raised panel lines with 400 grit sandpaper polish with 600

grit prior to spring white but a Craig put a thin coat of clear gloss varnish

using a 60 40 mix on your model any garden variety will do as long as it's

not polyurethane let it dry overnight in a dust-free environment the next day

inspect and remove any flaws wiped the tack rag spray another coat of varnish

and let it set up in a Destry environment for two hours depending on

atmospheric conditions the varnish should be virtually dry to the touch

actually it's a good idea to spray a scrap piece of plastic to use as a test

article when you touch the surface you should feel a slight tackiness but no

residue should stick to your finger you know like a post-it note chippewa we're

going to artists aluminum powder and begin buffing the varnish no need to

skimp on the powder you should see a glossy almost chrome like surface

developing a few Buffalo varnishes to dry the finish will be glossy but

transparent if you before it's too wet to finish will be dull after the finish

is cured white the model with attack Craig which will realistically dull

finish and recode with varnish repeat this process to produce a finish that

will resist damage from any subsequent masking once cured the finish is ready

for detailing and some diversity to the overall aluminum finish with the

following techniques bare metal foil panels rotate the grain for a different

effect

aluminized finishes such as humble silver or local gold silver painted on

clear decal film masking selected panels with artists risk it and repeating the

vanishing procedure but this time adding black copier toner to the aluminum

powder to change the shape of aluminum outline bulkheads ribs and rivets with

an artist stump dipped in powder this traded is a discarded vacuum cleaner

belt with a piece of felt attached this keeps from our in the surface

you can easily put a metal finish on any complex surface the wheels on my Bimota

are done and gold powder I wanted something really different yet

convincing from my 143rd scale 57 Chevy in fact I even treated the photo etched

sheet so that my grill and wheel spokes had a gold tone finish I was rummaging

through my models and found a conceptual kid at the B two bomber by model

technologies this was back before anyone had an inkling of what the be to really

look like the kids basic Delta shape look nothing like a bee to but could get

some styrofoam and bondo be made to look like Aurora the alleged super-secret

replacement to the sr-71 the problem but all those models of u2's sr-71 stealth

fighters is the monotony of a black finish I didn't want my Aurora looking

like a huge black blob so here's how I added some variety to the basic black

finish on the Aurora described penalize using various templates since I have no

references my panel lines are based on what I think the aircraft may look like

and my knowledge of how airplanes go together after cleaning the surface of

any oil residue in plastic bits I primed and sanded as described earlier I'm

going to put down a code of packed red dark grey the actual hugh was not so

important

some I prefer like Ghost Grey but I wanted to keep all the colors tone down

once finished the great will simulate walkway markings and sensors for this

reason I will completely cover the top but only selected sections of the

underside using one-sixteenth inch wide Chartpak tape lay out the walkway lines

I am basing the walkway pattern on photographs of the B two stealth bomber

as a reconnaissance platform the Euro would need electronic sensors that would

not compromise the aircraft stuffiness

to simulate these sensors I will use sections of wedding veil material

available at any fabric shop these are cut slightly larger than the panel later

material and police taking care not to distort it

will also be equipped with optical sensors so I dropped out some 18 inch

diameter holes there's no master plan here on the size of the hole the size

and location just looked right I imagine that the Aurora would have an attitude

control system much like the reaction control system used on the space shuttle

to simulate these I cut bare metal foil to size again I'm just guesstimating

here next day used a metal punch to score holes in the fall peace after

carefully lifting the rectangular piece and leaving the foil circles behind I

rub the foil rectangle in place after masking cockpit windows I sprayed the

aircraft in overall flat black using testers paint job of adding diversity

and interest to a rather dull paint scheme involves generating a variety of

hues of black remember that the eye is disturbed by asymmetric patterns so if

you have a particular shade on one side of a model balance the model by applying

the same shade to the other side if you need to decrease the tackiness of the

tape

your forehead this color is flat black mixed with purple in a three-to-one

ratio of black to purple your TV might not show these subtle shade but in

person they're quite evident if you get a piece of dust on your freshly painted

surface use a piece of tape to pick it out and then respray use royal blue in

the same proportions to get a slightly different shade stay away from the other

colors unless you need a really strange shade you can add white but you're

really just making shades of grey this shade was created by mixing three parts

gloss black 21 parts over after it dried for a day I rub the finish out with that

same piece of material I used earlier to simulate aluminum showing through the

war in camouflage of the BAF 109 you want to use this affects sparingly

because it really stands out by mixing glass black and silver fifty-fifty I got

this standout engine color on the by Moda after I rubbed it out to simulate

what I envisioned to be absorbing leading edges I needed an absolute dead

on flat black the aircraft was mask and sprayed with a garden variety of Mac

varnish using the same technique for creating a metallic finish I rubbed

copier toner onto the varnish the effect was so striking I used the same on these

heat vent louvers and some other areas

an important aspect of modeling subjects that may not actually exist is

visualizing what they should look like Hollywood production designers do this

when they create vehicles and spaceships for science fiction films with the

Aurora I envisioned a vehicle operating in the upper fringes of the atmosphere

on a slush hydrogen propulsion system since extreme heating create an ionized

layer of gas that shows up on radar my Aurora would need a system to capture

and dissipate as much of the heat as possible so the leading edge captures

heat which in turn is used to warm the slush hydrogen to operating temperatures

what little heat remains is vented upward into space where it would be

undetected by radar this visualization dictated my design panel line placement

and color scheme

for yet more shades of black I cut a mask from a three-by-five card to

simulate a small access panel and artists charcoal on the area

graphite color works well also and leaves an interesting is she

to add further contrast between different panel highlighted panel lines

with a number to mechanical pencil

finally I cut a few other masks from three-by-five card and spray different

areas with a clear semi matt lacquer to vary the tone of the basic black black

the result after only a few hours of effort is the completed Aurora it has a

basic yet varied black finish

issued a challenge in the journal of the International plastic model of society

the challenge was to build a post nuclear war era concept vehicle I came

up with a vehicle that resembled a tank from a commuter's worst nightmare I

built this vehicle to demonstrate some modeling techniques that will work on

any armor model other than cleaning mold release with mineral spirits know

whether painting preparation was done next I added damage to the vehicle by

grinding plastic away with a dremel tool

one other technique is to distressed the plastic used in a soldering iron I

prefer the soldering iron to direct flame because I can control the effect I

use a 15 watt soldering iron

the forward gun turret cobble together with parts from the scrap box was

distressed the same way the main gun turret was a simple box constructed from

sheet styrene I wanted to depict welded steel suffering the effects of weather

in combat to simulate a weld joint glue a piece of stretched sprue into place

the diameter of the sprue is dependent on the size of the weld joint and scale

using this precise mathematical formulation guessed that a diameter of

about one millimeter would do just fine using the soldering iron I gently push

the tip into the sprue creating a fair representation of a weld joint this

technique was carried through to the scratch built tank chassis

the blast damage was created by gouging the sheet plastic with a dremel tool

then the soldering iron was used to detail the effect finally I used a 240

grit sandpaper to take some of the rough edges off and make the blast more

homogeneous you see anti armor weapons used the extreme heat resulting from

terrific pressures to melt through armor the blast effect is largely coincidental

the car body was primed with local grey primer and sprayed with a code of packed

reflect red absolutely no attempt was made to lay down a pretty finish I

wanted grunge however I was mindful of dust the gun turrets and steel plate

armor were primed with actress steel and left that way to simulate arrested

finish I dusted local rust over the entire model until I had laid down

enough pigment to satisfy my tastes a little damage done to the flat red in

steel would be a welcome benefit to the overall grand genus of the model no

mercy for the chassis this was paid it overall rest when you spray a wet coat

of lacquer on styrene it usually crazy as the surface which in this case was

just fine

severely rusted and pitted areas such as fenders and punctures were created by

applying a thin coat of superglue before the model was primed then sprinkle

baking soda

yes that's right baking soda over the glue the to form a chemical bond that is

very strong in fact this makes it great gap filler but it's very difficult to

sand after the painting is done

go back and brush this area with local rust and feather the rest into the

surrounding paint using a dry brushing technique once dry seal with clear flat

next give the area a washer flat black finally burnish the high spots with

burnt sienna pastel chalk

keep in mind that this last step is highly perishable so this should be the

final details step just before the model is set up for display you can also use

the rest of our system to addressed to previously painted parts railroad

modeling shops generally carry this product but you can ask your local hobby

dealer to order it for you with basic construction surface detailing and

painting complete and a day for the paint to cure it was time to seal the

finish with a protective coat of clear matte test result code works well for

this and provides a good base from which to begin detailing Romanian areas such

as the steel plate corners and blast damaged or dry brush with local rust to

add visual drama to the high and low areas the model was given a light washer

flat black

ground vehicles quickly show signs of accumulated dirt if not cleaned

regularly and my post new vehicle is no exception to dramatize the effects of

Sun and dust I missed it on a coat off local grey primer over my completed work

I used a seventy thirty mix of lacquer thinner to pigment at forty pounds of

pressure and a fine spray at a distance of about two feet from the model the

airbrush deposits and almost imperceptible layer of gray pigment only

spray for about 10 seconds that's enough you really don't want to see the pigment

but its presence on the model reflects light and influences the eye of the

viewer money up the vehicle using a toothbrush and earth tone pigments I

rushed to the road wheels and muddy them with rust off this is great stuff it

looks clumpy and messy like dried murdered you simply apply a coat of thin

white blue and then sprinkle on the mud and grungy road wheel

with matt lacquer and apply a black wash if you want to add a deeper level of

grunge when you detail chrome parts it's best to remove the chrome you can do

this by wrapping a piece of cloth around the shank provided in a dremel tool kit

the spinning radware away the chrome leaving their plastic underneath once

you've completed simply you may need to go back and spruce up the past 20

shading you did I like to rub some earth tones on my finish to add further depth

and enhance the effect started by Miss Teen flow cool grey remember thats

affects the top and murder affects the bottom in between is a mixture of the

two

the coup de Gras of any ground vehicle is fuel and lubricants stands there are

a number of techniques for simulating the effect my favorite is for local

grind this is clump Eaton St look and stuff

loader brush with lacquer thinner dip it into the local crime and then read it in

the thinner drain some excess onto Atal then apply the stain to the surface and

let it run down the side repeat as necessary to get the effect you desire

it's better to under do the effect then to over do it because it's easier to

build the effect that it is to try to undo a botched attempt

remember that oil stains will travel for example across the scene and pool and

recessed areas so treat these areas accordingly

pressure oil stains can be made by using glass black and pink dinner if you use

for local rest instead of grime you can achieve the similar effect of dripping

rust stains on water-borne vehicles

this brings me to the close of another video look for other titles in our video

workbench series i'm Jack Davenport and we'll see you next time

For more infomation >> Model Finishes & Painting Techniques | Video Workbench - Duration: 54:40.

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