If you're looking to get bigger tires on your TJ as well as some better clearance off-road,
this Rough Country lift kit is definitely a kit to take a look at.
This is for the '03 to '06 TJs with the six cylinder 4.0.
This particular three and a quarter inch lift is the most affordable 3 inch option available
on the category that includes new shocks, and it will give you enough room to mount
up some 33s to give you more real estate on the trail as well as a comfortable amount
of room off-road to flex over obstacles.
Not to mention, this will keep a comfortable ride on the street since you're upgrading
that stock suspension and dampening system.
Like I mentioned, a 33 inch tire will be your best option pair with this lift, and the stock
tires make look a little small when paired with this kit.
Thirty-fives will require trimming and you're not going to have much room at all to squeeze
them in with that fender in the way, and I definitely would not recommend a 37 inch tire
with this kit.
As for the install guys, it gets a three out of three on the difficulty meter as most kits
do, and we'll show you how to install that in just a minute.
As I mentioned this kit will specifically be for the '03 to '06 models of the six cylinder
engine.
This is because of the body changes between '97 and '02 models, as well as the different
spring rates for weight compensation for both the four cylinder and the six cylinder engines.
We do offer those options as well in a kit, so make sure you get the right ones for your
TJ.
Overall this kit will give you three and a quarter inches of lift with the springs as
well as the spring isolaters or the spacers.
The springs are preset at two and a half inches with a three quarter inch spacer.
That will give you that additional lift and it will level out that factory rake in the
hood.
This will also come with the N2.0 shocks, which are Rough Country's nitrogen charged
shock.
There are two kinds of shocks to consider, including a hydraulic shock and a nitrogen
charged shock.
A hydraulic shock will feel more fluid-like and cushiony and it will provide more comfort
on-road, but it's more susceptible to shock fade over time from cavitation or foaming
forming inside the shock when it's excessively worked.
And a nitrogen charged shock is gas charged and it will ultimately be better at resisting
shock fade from any cavitation when being worked really hard, like excessive washboards
and bumps at fast speeds.
However, a nitrogen charged shock will feel a bit stiffer and rigid compared to a hydraulic
shock.
The N2.0 will be smooth and responsive, however they are charged at 200 psi to give them a
very long lifespan, better stability and to reduce that shock fade that I was just talking
about.
This kit will also come with a couple other necessary components, like sway bar links
and rear track bar bracket to keep your rear axle centered and a transfer case drop kit.
With three and a quarter inches of lift you won't necessarily need a slip yoke eliminator
kit for your driveshaft, but you might experience some vibration.
With a drop kit included, this will improve your driveshaft angle and prevent any drive
line vibrations with the added lift and it will help you avoid any potential damage like
drive train wear from a bad angle.
I would like to mention that when you are adding a transfer case drop, the shift linkage
may be compromised.
So if you do have trouble shifting into neutral or into four-low, a drop bracket may be necessary.
Right now this will be the most affordable option for lifts around three inches, and
the only option for this year and model with a three and a quarter inch lift.
This kit comes in at right around $430 at the moment.
Other options on the page for a three to a three and three quarter inches of lift will
be higher priced and usually range between three and three and a half inches.
Rough Country usually keeps their choices pretty wide for lift heights as well as keeping
it specific to the year and models, giving the lift a bit more of a custom fit tailored
feel for your Wrangler.
The higher priced options will also include extra components like adjustable control arms,
as well as track bars and quick disconnect sway bars.
The less expensive options on the other end of the spectrum will include body lifts which
will give you some height, but overall will not give you the same performance that you
may be looking for out of a full suspension lift.
Speaking of performance, if you weren't a fan of the nitrogen charged shock and wanted
a bit more of a fluid ride with practically the same height, Zone Offroad offers a kit
with hydraulic shocks.
However, if you're looking for a budget friendly lift for your '03 to '06 six cylinder TJ,
this will be your best option.
Like I mentioned before, this is going to be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty
meter and will most likely take most of your day to get everything bolted up and ready
to go.
Now I'm going to hand you off to our installers to show you how it's done.
Begin by removing the wheels.
First step, with the vehicle in the air, we're going to disconnect the sway bar links.
Next step, we're going to support the axle with jack stands.
Next step, with the axle supported, we're going to take out the track bar bolt.
It's a 15 millimeter.
Next step, with the axle supported, we're going to disconnect the shocks.
You're going to need a 13 millimeter.
Now that we have the bottom of the shock unbolted we're going to remove the top.
Next step, after we've completely removed the shocks, we're going to lower the axle
down and remove the stock springs.
Now that we have the axle low enough we can pull the springs out.
After we have the spring removed, Rough Country gives you new coil spring spacers, so we're
going to take the stock ones off.
You'll have to remove the bump stop, so I'll show you how to do that.
Begin by grabbing the rubber bump stop and wiggling it out.
Using a 15 millimeter socket, remove the bump stop cup.
Next, remove the spacer.
To get a little more drop out of the axle I'm going to disconnect this tie rod end here.
After removing the nut, you want to smack the knuckle to get the tie rod to unseat.
Once you have your spring in, you want to make sure to rotate it and seat it property
on the bottom end.
Following the same procedure for the other side, pull out the bump stop, take the bump
stop cup off, pull your stock spacer out.
Install the new spacer and reinstall the bump stop cup.
With this Rough Country lift kit, Rough Country provides you with directions to drill a new
hole next to the stock hole for the front track bar.
So we're going to measure over three quarters of an inch and we're going to mark a mark
with our punch.
You'll need to drill a seven-sixteenths hole, we're going to start with a smaller one to
make a pilot.
Once you've drilled through both sides with your pilot hole, we can go ahead and use the
seven-sixteenths and follow our way through.
Rough Country provides you with new sway bar links, you will however have to press the
sleeve into there.
I like to squirt it with some WD-40 and then use a vice to press it in.
Next step is going to be to install the front sway bar brackets on to the sway bar.
You're going to use a nine-sixteenths to tighten everything up.
Once you have the brackets in place, you're now ready to install the sway bar link.
The offset faces toward the frame.
You're going to reuse the stock bolt for the bottom.
Rough Country provides you with new hardware for the upper end link.
Go ahead and adjust the sway bar and you want to insert the bolt from the inside facing
out, that way you have clearance to the frame.
You'll tighten that with an 18 millimeter.
Same process for the other side.
Now that we have the front pretty much assembled, we're just going to reinsert this tie rod
end.
Now that we've completed the install on the front we're going to start working on the
rear.
The first step is going to be to disconnect the sway bar links.
So using an 18, we're going to start with the top bolts.
We're going to do the same thing for the other side, 18 millimeter for the top, and an 18
and a 15 for the bottom.
Retain the factory hardware as we're going to reuse those when we install the Rough Country.
The next step after we've removed the sway bar links, we're going to support the axle
then we'll disconnect the shocks and lower it down.
Now that we have the axle supported, we're going to go ahead and remove the bolts for
the shocks.
After you've removed the bottom bolt with an 18 and a 15, you're going to use a 13 millimeter,
remove the top 2 bolts.
Now that you've completely removed both shocks, it's time to lower the axle down, remove the
axle vent tube, and then we're going to take this track bar bolt out.
We're going to start off by removing this bolt in the upper track bar where it meets
the frame that way we can free up the axle, drop it all the way down and get that Torx
head out.
So now that we have the track bar disconnected, we're going to lower the rear end down, we'll
pull the springs, and then take the bolt out of the differential.
Alright, so now that we've exposed this Torx bolt, we're going to take a T-55 and pull that out and
remove the track bar.
All right, now that we've completed the disassembly, we're going to start with the assembly.
First is going to be to attach the track bar and drill the two holes.
So now that we've enlarged the holes, we're going to remove this bolt.
Next step we're going to install the coil spacers.
Once you pulled the bump stop out, you just remove the cup with a 15 millimeter.
Once you have the bump stop cup removed, we can place the spacer on there.
Make sure to reuse the factory isolator and then we're going to reinstall that.
Tighten up with a 15 millimeter.
After you've installed the spring spacers it's time to install the new Rough Country
springs.
Now that we have the coil springs in and the track bar brackets on, we're going to reinstall
the track bar just so we have access to this bolt before we push it up, otherwise the gas
tank skid plate gets in the way.
Now that you have the track bar bolted back on, we're going to raise the axle up some,
get the shocks installed.
Now that we have this hole lined up, we're going to go ahead and insert the lower bolt.
Same thing for the other side.
Insert one of the bolts, tighten it up a little bit.
Go ahead and install the shock and insert the other bolt.
We're going to use our 13 on an extension, and we're going to snug those bolts up.
Tighten up with a 15 and an 18.
Now we're going to go ahead and reinstall the track bar bolt where it mounts to the
frame.
Next we're going to assemble the rear sway bar links.
Same thing as the fronts, we have to insert the sleeves provided into there.
You want to spray them with a little WD-40, or some type of lubricant, and then we'll
put it in our vice and go ahead and squeeze those in.
Rough Country provides you with new hardware to install their links.
You want to use one bolt and a washer for the top.
You're going to use the OEM tab nut and we're going to go ahead and insert that in the frame
right there.
Same thing, using the hardware provided, we're going to go ahead and attach it to the sway
bar.
We're going to use a washer on each side.
Same thing for the other side, bolt and washer.
Insert the tab nut on the inside.
So once you have the rear fully assembled and everything's tightened up, we're going to
lengthen this axle vent tube a little bit.
So this is the vent tube here.
It's zip tied.
So what we'll do is just pull that down a little bit, give us a little extra length to accommodate
for the lift.
We're going to pull this tube completely out and we're gonna put it on this side of everything.
Now we'll have enough length.
We can go up and around the track bar and reinsert that arm.
You want to put a zip tie on that and we're also going to zip tie the line up to some
other lines just to keep it out of the way.
All right, now we've completed the install on this LJ.
If you have a standard TJ, Rough Country provides you with a transfer case drop kit, they give
you spacers to put in here to reduce their drive train angle.
Since this is an LJ, it's not required for this size lift.
Now that the whole install is done, we're going to go ahead and put the wheels back
on.
Now that we've reinstalled the wheels, we're going to lower the Jeep down, put it on the
ground and then we'll get the front track bar bolt in.
Now that we have the vehicle on that ground, to get this front track bar bolt in, you may
need a second person to turn the steering wheel.
Once they turn the steering wheel, it will align that hole up.
You can go ahead an insert the bolt and get the capture or tab nut started on the back.
Once you've done that, you can tighten it up with a 15 millimeter.
So if you're looking for a budget-friendly way to get three inches of lift on your TJ,
this is it.
This is Meredith with XT, and you can find this and everything else Wrangler right here
at extremeterrain.com.
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