Today we regulate an electronic Shimano change of road!
Electronic changes do not use cables conventional, but cables with connectivity
electrical, when an electronic change is adjusted, it never gets mismatched
the mere operation, because it does not have the drawbacks of wear or increase of friction
by dirt from normal cables and covers, if it mismatches, it will be due to chain wear,
cassette or sheaves, or because it has been folded the pin or the change itself.
We always recommend having a pin spare, but if it's not too bent
It is possible that it can be straightened.
To do it properly, we will need this useful, but as an emergency solution,
after a fall, either riding or simply for supporting the bike badly, with a lot
careful we could throw the change towards us, but it will only be perfect
with the tool, and, if we do not have it, we should Take it to our trusted workshop when
we can.
Everything that we are going to explain is valid for Shimano Ultegra and Dura-Ace electronic shifts,
of 10 or 11 speeds.
We go with the adjustment following the specifications and the order that Shimano proposes.
the first thing is to adjust the tension screw or angle that moves us vertically or vertically
the change of the pine nuts.
We have to gear the change in the pinion bigger, in the electronic changes
It is usually a screw for Allen key of 2 millimeters.
If we press, the change goes down or away from cassette and if we loosen it, the change goes up
or is approaching.
The teeth of the upper sheave must remain more or less about 5 millimeters from the teeth
of the large pinion.
Never more than one centimeter.
After the mechanical adjustment, we will adjust the electronic part
Press the pinion rise lever until the chain is in the pinion more
great, and we make sure it's the last click on the handle giving it twice more.
If it is out of order, it could happen that the chain is engaged in the pinion more
big, but the handle is not in the last position, two or three clicks more and we'll be
insurance
Now we press 4 click on the lever down, we have the chain where we have left,
if it was more or less adjusted, it will be normal, the chain will fall to the fifth pinion
counting as pinion 1 the largest of them and like 11 the little one.
Now we put the system in fine adjustment mode pressing the button of the control unit for a few seconds
until the red light appears.
The switchboard can be located, under the power, in the frame itself or in one of
the ends of the handlebar.
When in fine adjustment mode, the buttons of the command act in the same way moving
the change up or down, but with very small movements, as if in
a conventional change we were spinning the tensor just a little.
There are 16 micro movements available towards up and 16 down. 32 in total.
We started clicking up until that the chain interferes with the fourth pinion,
we will hear a small purr, as if the chain I would like slightly to climb to the fourth pinion,
At that point we give 4 clicks down, with the drop lever and we will have the
Perfect fit according to Shimano.
We can do this process with a large plate or small, but when we go to check
If it has been good for us, we should do it with the big plate, because Shimano, from
of two thousand and seventeen, to avoid crosses of chain, does not allow to engage the two pinions
smaller taking the small plate, with the big one everyone is allowed.
This adjustment is ideal if we use all the Shimano components: chain, cassette and hub.
If we use any of these components of other brands, this method may not work
to perfection.
The reason is that not all bushings place the cassette in exactly the same position
of Shimano, being able to be displaced to the right or left with respect to this one.
In these cases the easiest way to adjust is to place the chain in an intermediate pinion.
We enter fine adjustment mode as we have taught and turning the cranks, play with
the 32 micro-adjustments available to get a position where the chain is centered
in the pinion as best as possible, and there no rubbing noise with the adjacent pinions.
The same thing we would do by turning the tensioner a conventional change.
With the large plate, we check that the adjustment it's good in all the pine nuts ... and if not
If it were like that, we would go back to fine tuning mode until tune it up completely.
We have the adjustment of the movement stops with the screws H and L, which we have already explained
in other videos.
We will use an Allen key of 2.
We climb the chain to the big pinion and tighten the screw L until it meets the joint
of change, in this way the change can not be move more to the left avoiding so
the chain falls between the large pinion and the radios.
And the same with the small pinion and the screw H, if you have any doubts we recommend you
an eye to our video on this topic.
But, attention, there is an important caveat in electronic changes, when we press
the screw H until it meets the joint, we must then turn left, or unscrew
a turn to leave some tolerance to the engine.
If we adjust it in excess, although the chain will come to enter the smallest pinion,
If the change does not have enough travel, the engine will try to reach its position
unable to get it, being able to spend a excess battery at best,
and at worst get to burn without possibility repair.
Thank you very much for listening to us, do not forget subscribe and if you have found interesting
or you have learned something we always thank you I like him"
And we finish with a smile.
Honey, you're Christmas I have not put on weight nothing.
Go get rid of bullshit, those tights were of daisies and now they are sunflowers.
See you in the next video! We wait for you!
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