Youtube daily Dec 18 2018

Ryan: The Mopar 2-inch lift kit with FOX shocks is for those of you that have a 2018 and up

four-door JL with a 3.6-liter engine in it that are looking for a lift kit that's going

to allow you to run a larger tire on your Jeep, but also one that is made by Mopar.

It's going to absolutely, 100% fit perfectly on your Jeep.

And depending on how you have it installed, is not going to mess with any of the factory

warranties on your brand new Jeep.

This kit is going to allow you to run a set of 33-inch tires on a Rubicon that has those

slightly higher fender flares.

You can get away with a bigger 35-inch tire even on just 2-1/2 inches of lift like this

kit is going to provide.

This kit is going to be a two out of three wrenches for the installation.

It does come with new longer lower control arms for the front of the Jeep so there is

gonna be a good bit of disassembly and then reassembly to do when installing this lift.

But we're gonna show you how to do that in just a second.

So, there are going to be a lot of lift kits out there as the aftermarket catches up to

the new generation of the Jeep, the new JL, and a lot of them are gonna be similar or

slightly different.

Sometimes it's hard to tell what you're really getting.

When you buy something that's from Mopar, this is a Jeep-branded part, Jeep Performance

branded part.

This is going to fit and work very, very well on your Jeep.

You're going to get something that is tuned specifically for your Wrangler and again,

you're not going to have any sort of issues with your warranty with this kit either.

So, there are a lot of benefits to purchasing this kit as opposed to one from one of the

aftermarket companies that isn't directly affiliated or associated with Jeep themselves.

However, because this does say Jeep Performance on it, because this does come out of a Mopar

box, this is gonna be a little bit pricier than some of the other kits that are going

to have fairly similar components.

So, let's talk about the components for just a second.

What you're going to get here is, of course, a new set of coil springs.

These are going to be longer springs and this what provides you with your two inches of

lift.

You're also going to get new coil spring isolators up front.

Now, the JL, the way it's designed, some people with the Mopar kit and some of their aftermarket

kits, were getting a little bit of spring bowing up front.

So, those new isolators are designed to take care of that.

You're also going to get a new set of sway bar end links, not just for the front but

also for the rear of the Jeep.

So, that's going to be a longer set of end links to allow for the new taller ride height.

As I said before, you're getting a new set of front lower control arms.

That's going to adjust your geometry back a little bit closer to the factory.

It's going to roll that axle which helps to get your caster and your pinion angle back

to where they were when the Jeep rolled off the assembly line.

So, you're not gonna get any weird driving characteristics, you're also not gonna get

any premature [inaudible 00:02:28] wear due to weird angles or any of that stuff.

These are gonna take care of all of that for you.

Here, you're going to have bump stop extensions for both the front and the rear of the Jeep.

Bump stop extensions are often overlooked but very, very important and you're going

to get those right here.

And then, of course, you're going to get those FOX shocks that are specifically designed

for this kit to work with your JL.

And that's why we're so specific and that's why Mopar is so specific with the fitment

of this kit.

This is for a four-door with the 3.6-liter.

Because if you're talking about a four-door with a two-liter or a two-door, the shocks

are going to be different.

These are going to be valved specifically for the weight of the Jeep as well as the

springs.

The springs are going to have a different spring rate for the different weights of the

Jeep.

So, this is very, very specific to your Jeep.

Now, what you're gonna get with the FOX shocks, this is an aluminum body monotube shock.

And what that means is that you're getting a nice, large surface on the inside here,

on the plunger of the shock which allows the shock to do a lot of damping.

It can take care of a lot of shock over a long period of time.

The fact that this is such a large body, it has a lot of fluid in it which helps it to

dissipate heat as well as the fact that it's aluminum helps with heat dissipation as well.

So, this is a shock that's going to ride comfortably, perform very well on-road and off-road.

In a slow off-road situation, this shock doesn't really come into play but if you do anything

a little bit higher speed, you're going over any sort of washboards, you're going to want

a high-quality shock and that's what you're going to get out of these FOX shocks built

specifically for this Jeep Performance kit from Mopar.

As I said before, you're getting components here that you can get from some other manufacturers

for a little bit of a lesser price.

For this kit here, you're gonna pay right around that $1,500 mark.

Do I think that's a bad price?

No.

I don't.

I think that's a fair price because I think you're getting components here that are designed

specifically for your vehicle by the same people that make the vehicle and components

that aren't going to affect your warranty at all and are just gonna work just like your

Jeep would if it rolled off the assembly line with a lift kit.

This is the lift kit that Jeep would have put on it.

So, I think you are gonna get a lot for your money here.

If you aren't as concerned about the warranty, if you're not concerned about the manufacturer

name on the kit, you can piece something together that's gonna be very high-quality, control

arms, springs that are the proper spring rate, really high-quality shocks that are valved

properly for your Jeep.

And you can piece something together for maybe a few dollars less.

But again, as a kit, one-stop shop, really high-quality components that's gonna do a

lot for you.

I do think the $1,500 price tag is gonna be pretty fair.

So, I mentioned before we're gonna have somebody show you how to get this thing installed.

We're gonna do that right now.

Tony: Tools used for this installation are as follows: a 15, 18, 21, 24, an 8, and a

10-millimeter socket, an impact gun or ratchet, a 24 and a 19-millimeter wrench.

You'll also need a lift or jack and jack stands.

Now, we have our Jeep lifted up into the air and secured safely, we're gonna go ahead and

get our wheels and tires off.

Then we're gonna move on to getting our factory suspension out.

Now, using a 22-millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and get our factory wheels and tires

off.

Afterwards, we're gonna put them off to the side and we're gonna go ahead.

We're gonna go ahead and get our shocks removed.

We're gonna move on to our sway bar end links.

We are gonna disconnect our parking brake cables.

It's gonna make it a lot easier to swing the factory rear differential out of the way to

get our springs out.

Now, that our wheels and tires are off, we're gonna go ahead and use a couple pole jacks

to support our rear axle assembly.

Now, we're gonna go ahead and start getting some of our components off.

We're gonna start by taking off our rear shocks, getting them out of the way and off to the

side.

Then, we're gonna move on to our sway bar end links.

We're gonna go ahead and get our track bar disconnected.

We're not gonna completely remove it, we're just gonna go ahead disconnect it for now.

And then we're gonna remove our parking brake cables just to give us that little bit of

extra stretch to get our factory springs out and our new springs in.

Now, at home, if you don't have pole jacks to use and you're not on a lift, you can do

this with a floor jack.

Like I said before, just make sure that your Jeep is well supported on a set of jack stands.

Then you can go ahead and just put your floor jack right underneath the pumpkin and lower

it down and out of the way.

Now, starting with your 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench, we're gonna go

ahead and get our shock bolts off here.

I'm gonna begin by just taking off the lower ones, swinging them out of the way then I'll

show you how to get access to the upper bolts and we'll go ahead and get those out too.

Now, to gain access to your upper shock bolts, we're gonna have to go ahead and remove this

small inner fender panel right here.

Now, this is very simple.

You're just going to use an 8-millimeter socket and go ahead and remove these three screws

and get this out of the way.

All right.

Now that our inner panel is out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and use the same 18-millimeter

socket that we used to take our lower bolts out to remove our upper bolt.

Now, we're not gonna need the wrench this time because the weld nut is already welded

to the inside of the frame.

Now, we're just gonna go ahead and move the bolt and make sure you keep a good grip on

that shock when removing it because you don't want it to fall down and hit you.

Now, just remember this is the same process on both sides.

So, it doesn't really differ whether you're on the driver side or the passenger side.

Now that our shocks are out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and get our end links off.

Now, using the same 18-millimeter wrench and socket, we're gonna go ahead and get them

disconnected.

We're gonna start with the lower ones.

With the upper mounts, we're gonna need to utilize an Allen key to get those disconnected.

When disassembling your Jeep, make sure you keep your hardware well organized because

a lot of this, we are gonna reuse with the installation of our new lift kit.

Now, for the removal of our upper tie rod end links, we're gonna go ahead, I'm gonna

break them loose using my 18-millimeter socket on my impact gun.

We will not be able to remove them completely this way.

To remove them, we're gonna have put Allen key in the middle of the bolt and a wrench

on the nut because it utilizes a ball joint style attachment.

Next, using a 21-millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and disconnect our track bar

but we're not gonna completely take our track bar out because we're still gonna use this

one once we put it back together.

Now, this also has a weld nut with a tab on the back of it so you won't need a wrench

to hold the bolt in place.

Now that our track bar is disconnected, we're gonna go ahead and get our parking brake cables

disconnected from the back of our axle.

This will give us that little bit of extra room to lower our axle down enough to get

our factory springs out.

And so we can go ahead and get started to getting our new ones in.

I already got this one out, but to remove them, you're gonna pull on the cable to gain

a little bit of slack and you're gonna wanna hold this tab out while you do it and this

should pop right out.

Once again, we're just gonna pull on the cable while holding this tab out and unhook it.

Now, to disconnect the cable from this tab, all you have to do is press in the little

tabs that surround the outside of it and it should slide right out.

And repeat this on both sides.

Now that we have everything disconnected, we can go ahead and start lowering our axle

assembly down.

Now that our axle assembly is lowered, we can go ahead and pop our factory springs out.

All right.

Now on to the front end of our build, we're gonna go ahead and disassemble it just as

we did the rear wheel.

We're gonna start with our shocks, our sway bar end links, we're gonna disconnect our

track bar, our brake lines, and maybe a few fittings, drop our differential down, and

go ahead and get our new springs and shocks in.

Now, the disassembly of the front uses all the same tools as the rear.

The shocks are still 18-millimeters.

Your sway bar end links are also still your 18-millimeters and your track bar is still

your 21.

Now, in your Rubicon Jeep, you're gonna have this sensor up in here.

This is the sensor that locks your differential in till you get power evenly distributed to

both wheels.

We're gonna need to unplug that.

You don't wanna have too much tension on that wire or else your four-wheel drive won't work

completely.

Using a flathead screwdriver, come to the clip, dig it in, and give it a little twist.

It unlatches, you can go ahead and pop the plug right out.

Now that you have everything disconnected, we can go ahead and start lowering our differential

down so we can pop our springs out.

And I know our shocks and our original end links are still attached, we'll get those

out in a minute.

Now that we have our differential lowered down enough, we're gonna go ahead and pop

our springs out and we're just gonna toss these off to the side.

All right.

Now, with our vehicle apart, we're ready to go ahead and install our new rear springs

in our Jeep JL.

Now, we're gonna have to go ahead and get our springs in.

They do differ from side to side.

Make sure you pay attention to the instructions and put in the correct one.

With our factory isolators in place, we're just gonna go ahead and slide the spring up.

And before you get the rear all the way lifted up one side, make sure you get your other

spring in place also.

Now, with our springs properly in place, we're gonna go ahead and get our shocks in.

This way, we can lock our springs in without them falling out of the spring pocket.

Now we're ready to go ahead and get our shocks installed and we're gonna wanna make sure

that you grab the right ones for the rear of your vehicle.

Your rear shocks that come in your kit are gonna have this plastic dust shield on them.

Now, they're open at the bottom that way anything that goes in will go right back out.

Now you're gonna have them inverted with the plastic piece to the bottom.

Let's go ahead and slide that up and secure it with your factory hardware.

Now, go ahead and repeat that for the other side.

Sometimes you might need to take a small dead blow and just tap it into place.

Now, we're gonna go ahead and get our track bar lined back up and it isn't far with this

kit because the lift really isn't that much.

What we're gonna do is go ahead and take our pry bar, shift our rear over just enough to

line the hole back up, and we slide the bolt in.

Now, don't forget to put your tab nut on the back of it.

Then you should be good to go.

Now, we're gonna go ahead and tighten our shocks and our track bar down and then we'll

go ahead and get our end links back on and tie up all loose ends in the rear.

Then we'll go ahead and move along to the front.

Now, with your 21-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten that up.

Now, for your shocks, you're gonna use your 18-millimeter socket and the 18-millimeter

wrench.

Now, remember on the top one, you don't need the wrench, just your socket.

Now we're gonna go ahead and get our new end links in place.

These are slightly longer to go ahead with your lift kit.

Get our factory bolt in place, slide that down, then secure your nut on the bottom and

on top.

Once again with your 18-millimeter socket and wrench, go ahead and tighten this up.

Now we can go ahead and use our 19-millimeter wrench and our Allen key that we used earlier

to tighten up our upper sway bar end links.

Now, just remember, once you tighten up one side, it's the exact same process for the

other.

We're gonna go ahead and just plug our sensor in here on the side of our differential and

get our E-brake cables reinstalled.

Now they just clip right back into place in the exact opposite that you disconnected them.

After that, we're gonna get our covers back on our inner wheel wells then you can throw

your wheels and tires back on and we'll move along to the front.

Now, that ties up the installation on our rear of our new Mopar lift kit on our Jeep

JL series.

Now, we're gonna go ahead and move along to front.

Make sure you get your wheels and tires back on and torque them down the spec and you'll

be good to go.

All right.

Now, begin the installation of our front end, we're gonna start by putting in our new bottom

isolators for our springs.

Now, these are side-specific because your spring will lock into these.

Just follow the little nub that's on the bottom of them.

We're gonna go ahead and put that on our axle assembly, lining it up with the hole.

Just tap it into place.

Just repeat that on both sides.

Now, with our new isolators on the bottom and our factory ones that came with our Jeep

on top, we're gonna go ahead and slide our spring in place.

Now, just go ahead and repeat that on the other side.

With our springs in place, we can go ahead and get our shocks in, that way we can hang

our axle from the shocks.

That will take up the tension, we can get them off of our pole jacks.

Then we can go ahead and get our new sway bar end links installed and get our new lower

control arms installed.

Now, with your shocks installed, let's go ahead and get them tightened up using your

18-millimeter socket and your 18-millimeter wrench.

Now, with our springs and our shocks in place, we can go ahead and get our sway bar end links

in.

Now just go ahead and slide them in your sway bar and flip the lower link in, line up the

holes.

Don't forget your tab nut on your passenger side and your lock nut on the top.

Now, once you've got both sides in, you can just go ahead and tighten it up.

Now, with our 19-millimeter and our Allen key, go ahead and tighten these up.

And now with your 18-millimeter socket on your passenger side and your 18-millimeter

socket and wrench on your driver side, go ahead and tighten up the lower mounts.

Now, with the help of my friend, Joe, we used a set of ratchet straps and we pull our differential

over so we can get our track bar bolt in.

Now, realistically, you can just put your wheels back on and lower your Jeep back down

on the ground, but we're not done yet.

We still have our lower control arms to do and I just wanted to get the bolt in so you

can see what it takes to get that in.

Now, once you've got it in, just use your 21-millimeter socket to tighten it down.

All right.

Now, the last part we have to change for our lift kit is our lower control arms.

Now, these are fairly easy but the bolts are gonna be tight.

We're gonna begin with a 21-millimeter socket on the bolt side and a 24-millimeter wrench

on the nut side.

But before that, we gotta go ahead and take this bracket off of our lower control arm

that keeps our cables in place.

We're just gonna go ahead and take the nut off, swing it out of the way, then we'll get

our bolts out, and get our lower control arms swapped out.

Now, we're not gonna tighten them up until we get the wheels on it and it on the ground.

Now, you may ask yourself why do we have to wait for it on the ground?

If you tighten up your bolts while your suspension is at full droop, what this can result in

is a ripped rubber bushing.

Because it will be forcing the bushing to twist inside our control arm, that will cause

damage to it.

So, if you get the vehicle on the ground at full weight, it'll have the bushing where

it's supposed to be while you're driving and this won't cause the bushing to twist inside

the control arm and tear.

Now, let's go ahead and get them swapped out.

With our 15-millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and remove this nut.

Now, as you can see, our new ones compared to our old ones, our new ones are just slightly

longer.

Not a lot, but just slightly.

This'll help correct our pinion angle for our front differential.

And they just go back in in the reverse that they came out.

Go ahead and just loosely place your nuts back on your bolts.

And go ahead and put your bracket back on.

This, you can tighten down and lock it in where it goes.

All right.

We went ahead and we did the driver side first.

Steps on the passenger side are exactly the same.

Now, I hope you enjoyed this video and it shows you what it takes to do your lift kit

at home in your driveway.

Now, all you gotta do is throw your wheels on, torque them down, get this sitting on

its weight, tighten up the lower control arms, and you are good to go.

Now, once all that is done, make sure you take your Jeep out for an alignment.

Any time you mess with suspension and take suspension parts apart, always look into getting

an alignment, especially when you're lifting your vehicle.

Now, for more parts of videos like these, make sure you visit us at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler JL Mopar 2" Lift Kit & Fox Shocks (2018 4 Door) Review & Install - Duration: 29:55.

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Gungrave VR PS4 Review | 2 Hours Later | Backlog Battle - Duration: 5:22.

What's up everyone?

Alex here!

I had fond memories playing the original Gungrave on the PS2.

Created by TRIGUN creator Yasuhiro Nightow, the game spawned a 26 episode anime, as well

as a sequel called Gungrave: Overdose.

More than a decade later, Gungrave reemerges with Gungrave VR, a follow-up to the original

PS2 games.

Many fans, including myself, have been looking forward to this game, but how does it actually

play in VR?

Let's lock and load those Cerberus pistols and find out, as we review Gungrave VR, Hours Later!

Gungrave VR's gameplay is mostly lifted from the original PS2 games but with a few

different twists.

You'll be moving your headset around to aim a reticle in the middle of the screen

and pressing the R2 button to fire Grave's Cerberus pistols.

Grave's pistols never run out of ammo, but they do overheat, which you can cool off by

pressing the L1 button.

You'll also be able to slowly rotate the camera using the Right Analog stick, but this

does so in an abrupt camera shift motion, which is prevalent in most VR titles.

Grave can also dodge roll, slow down time, use his coffin as a melee weapon, and deliver powerful attacks,

much like the game's predecessors.

New to Gungrave VR are stages that feature arcade style shooter sections, where Grave

stays stationary in the middle of a platform, as he attacks multiple enemies.

If this new gameplay addition just made you do a double-take, it's because Gungrave

VR seems to want to exist in a world where its PS2 games are still a standard for quality

while trying to offer an immersive VR experience.

The first person arcade sections don't feel right in a game where the third person gameplay

should be the star.

Gone are your options to move around and dodge in these sections.

Instead, you're forced to shoot down everything and anything on screen.

Unfortunately, this doesn't mean that Gungrave VR's third person sections are any better.

Much of the design of the third-person encounters in Gungrave VR are often dictated by what

would work if the game were a full fledged non-VR game rather than designing it around

the medium.

For example, it's very common for enemies to try and rush towards Grave from a variety

of different directions, forcing you to try and move him backward, only to get trapped

on an invisible wall or get wedged in between enemies.

This poses a huge number of problems from a motion sickness standpoint, as you're

forced to make abrupt head movements to aim your target reticle, or to even see what's

behind you.

The camera rotation using the Right Analog Stick is also unbearably slow, and for a fast

paced action game, this design is at an odds with the kind of game this is.

It also doesn't help that the target reticle tends to disappear from time to time, or that

your enemies are enveloped in smoke-like special effects that can cover much of the screen.

In a game where balancing what and when to shoot and when to cool off your pistols, it's

criminal to have to guess if you're actually hitting someone or not.

Probably one of the most egregious design decisions that exacerbate the problem for

motion sickness is the placement of the game's health and beat gauges.

Instead of integrating these elements into the reticle somehow, these UI elements sit

slightly above the floor, forcing players to take their eyes away from the action or

even move their headset so that they could quickly take a peek at their current situation.

Again, rapid head movements in VR are not good!

Despite my grievances when it comes to the gameplay, there are often times that I marvel

at the attention put onto Grave's character model.

There's a few enemies here and there whose designs I've also liked, only to be quickly

pulled back by the quality of the rest of the game.

The story is very minimal - the beginning of the game just shows text, with no artwork,

and merely serves as an excuse as to why you're doing all of this.

You can finish Gungrave VR in a couple of hours, and you can probably spend a little

bit more time to rank better.

I would've vastly preferred it if the whole game was playable in third person throughout,

as the arcade style gameplay interspersed in-between is just not what I want to play

when I think of Gungrave.

Gungrave VR is a game of could've, would've, should'ves.

It could've been a great experience, and it would've been, had the developers minded

what it actually means to make a VR experience.

They should've taken some time to make sure that all of its elements are firing on all

cylinders too, as Gungrave VR could've delivered an unforgettable experience that would've

helped usher in more third person action games into the medium.

Instead, Gungrave VR feels like it was made with the most minimal of efforts, and this

saddens me as a longtime fan of the series.

Thanks for watching this review.

If you found this video to be informative, please like, share, and subscribe to the channel.

Then, hit that bell icon to be notified of my latest videos!

Also, follow me on Twitter @mybacklogbattle for the latest updates on upcoming videos,

or, to just chat about video games!

Thanks for watching!

And have a wonderful gaming week!

For more infomation >> Gungrave VR PS4 Review | 2 Hours Later | Backlog Battle - Duration: 5:22.

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Stay Focused: S2 Ep48 Smart Home Technology - Duration: 5:15.

- Welcome to Stay Focused, Focus Real Estate's

weekly video series.

And this week, we have a special series on

Smart home technology.

(wind chimes)

Randal's been doing a lot of research for you,

cause this is actually kind of a fun topic.

Something we're seeing a lot of.

- We're seeing a lot of it, and it touches so many

different parts of our home.

(wind chimes)

We're gonna try to touch a little bit of the surface of it,

just to give you a departure point,

and if you want some more information,

feel free to reach out to us.

We've got some really terrific resources.

So, first of all--

- Cause you can really get lost in the technologies,

this is a primer. - Holy crap.

Yeah, so, you really can get lost in all of this stuff.

So, really, a few pieces of advice for you,

as far as your home stuff.

You're probably seeing it everywhere.

People with the Alexa, the Hey Google,

the Nest Thermostats.

- The Ring doorbells, - The Ring doorbells,

- All the security, things like that.

- It's so totally interesting, and what caught my

attention to this, a little bit,

and to dive a little bit deeper was when Erik and I

tried to buy a little light switch.

A little timer for a light switch outside.

We brought it home, and we were like, well crap,

this doesn't work with our house.

- We just thought it would--

- We thought you would plug it in, and boom.

- And an app that could turn it on and off from wherever,

you needed a hub, we're like what's a hub?

- What the hell is a hub, and why do I

need to spend more money?

But, anyway, so this is really our best

piece of advice for you, is know where you start,

and do a tad bit of research first.

Okay, so realize that there's basically three systems

that really are the most popular,

pervasive in the marketplace.

- What are those three, Randal?

The three are Alexa on Amazon, so that's one system.

You have, Google, is the second system,

- Hey Google.

- Yep, and Apple is the third one, okay.

So, there are some advantages and disadvantages of each.

The advantages are--

- So they are your, they have your hub.

- They're platforms for hubs, but be careful before

you buy the cheapest Dot on Amazon or on Google,

that may not actually be a hub,

but just a device to speak to, so check it

to make sure it's a hub, it should say hub, okay?

And by hub, I mean something that talks to all of those

other things in your house like,

my little timer for the lights.

Anyway.

(wind chimes)

- The internet of things.

- The internet of things.

- So, what's the internet of things?

So, we're talking about all these lights and even

refrigerators and stuff like that.

- Yep.

- Being able to control those from--

- From remotely, so, when you're talking about these

three systems, when you're talking about Amazon,

it's probably the biggest and it has the largest

number of products that go along with it.

Voice recognition is a strength of Google,

so Google's platform is really, it's

artificial intelligence, and speech recognition is the best.

Then we move to Apple - Apple.

- Apple is just a little behind with some of those things,

but they are also really easy to use,

because you don't need a hub, and it works through

your iPhone of iPad.

So, those are the three systems.

And when you're buying things, buy name-brand stuff.

And by that, the reason we say that, is that you want to

buy stuff that has a password that can be changed,

and a scan code that you can get instructions for.

- And name recognition, so the big names,

we've got a couple examples here.

- Smoke detectors, we have--

- We have our thermostats, - Thermostats.

- Temperature control.

- This is kinda cool.

This is a door lock that you can control remotely,

so the house cleaners are coming, you wanna let em in,

but you don't wanna give em a passcode,

you can unlock your door from your phone at work.

- And change the passcodes.

- You can change the passcodes all the time.

- Lighting, another big thing, so there's lots

you can do with this.

It's actually kind of exciting and fun.

Start out small, learn, make sure you're

on the right systems and hubs.

A good place to go for more information, Randal?

- Yeah, there's a really great website that talks about

how all of this works together.

And gives you instructions on how to get started.

It's called smarthomedb, smarthomedb.com.

D-B, like database, so smarthomedatabase.com,

is a place to go, it's a very simple site,

can give you some good instructions on getting started,

and have some fun with us.

It's kind of a fun thing to do,

- Yeah.

- It's kind of a fun thing to play with,

and also, I'll have to say since we are in real estate,

and we are in people's homes, be careful out there.

When you're in other people's homes,

and you think you're alone, you might not be alone.

- Or on their front door step,

they might be listening to you.

- They might be listening to you, so.

- Don't be saying, oh, I'm dreading going to this party,

(loud laughing)

if you're standing at their front door.

They might be listening.

- They might be listening.

I hope she's not wearin that dress again.

- But if ya have more questions, or you wanna get started,

and you're just not sure, drop us a line, or give us a call.

- We can give you some good resources.

- Exactly.

- Yeah, yeah, so thanks for watchin everybody.

Don't forget to like us on Facebook.

- And subscribe to our Youtube channel.

- And until next time,

Stay Tuned and Stay Focused. - Stay Tuned and Stay Focused.

(upbeat music)

(cheering)

- Get some energy.

- I got some energy.

Google, Alexa, Google, Alexa, Google, Alexa.

Are you talkin to your house?

Who you talking to? - You talkin to me?

For more infomation >> Stay Focused: S2 Ep48 Smart Home Technology - Duration: 5:15.

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best horse rider showing horse riding trotting technique | most beautiful stallion in the world. - Duration: 1:00.

Thnx 4 Watching Don't forget to like the video & Subscribe the channel...!

For more infomation >> best horse rider showing horse riding trotting technique | most beautiful stallion in the world. - Duration: 1:00.

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W10704089 - Replacing Your Maytag Fridge's Upper Freezer Bin AP597768 PS10065962 - Duration: 3:48.

hi my name is Bill and today I'm gonna be showing you how to replace the upper

freezer bin in your fridge the reason why you might have to do this is because

the bin is cracked or damaged for this repair we'll be using a flathead

screwdriver and a quarter-inch nut driver warning before doing any repairs

please disconnect your power source so this is a refrigerator we're gonna be

using for this demonstration it's a maytag and keep in mind yours at

home might be a little bit different than what we have here but the same

technique should still apply first thing we're going to do is open up our freezer

drawer and we've got to remove the two screws that are holding the door on here

and now that those screws are off we can just lift up on the door and it'll pull

right off and the next thing we need to do is remove these two bin stoppers here

and in order to get it off what I'm doing is I'm twisting up like so and

that should free it and same thing on this side I'm just gonna twist this up

and if you need to just get a flathead screwdriver

wedge it in there give yourself a little bit of help there

so now that the stoppers are out we can remove this top drawer here and we're

just going to pull it all the way to the end and tilt it and take it out now you

can grab your new OEM replacement upper for your basket assembly if you don't

have one already you can find it on our online store and we're just gonna line

up that wheel with the track make sure everything lines up set it in there

there we go now we're going to push that back and now we can replace the stoppers

and all we have to do is just line up put it straight back in and now we're

gonna line up these two round tabs here with the slots that are in the front of

the drawer slide once those are lined up set it down in there and now we can

screw it back into place

and now that we've got a screw back into place you can close our door and your

repair is complete finally don't forget to plug in your

appliance if you need to replace any parts for your appliances you can find

an OEM replacement part on our website pcappliancerepair.com thanks for

watching and please don't forget to like comment and share our video also don't

forget to subscribe to our channel your support helps us make more videos

just like these for you to watch for free

For more infomation >> W10704089 - Replacing Your Maytag Fridge's Upper Freezer Bin AP597768 PS10065962 - Duration: 3:48.

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WPW10248799 - Replacing Your Maytag Fridge's Glass Pantry Shelf AP6017760 PS11751060 - Duration: 4:43.

hi my name is Bill and today I'm gonna be showing you how to replace the glass

shelf that sits on the pantry drawers in your fridge the reason why you might

have to do this is because a shelf is cracked or damaged warning before doing

any repairs please disconnect your power source so this is a refrigerator we're

gonna be using for this demonstration it's a maytag and keep in mind yours at

home might be a little bit different than what we have here but the same

technique you should still apply so the first thing we're going to do is open

up our fridge and now I'm going to take drawers out and those just slide

straight out and now we're gonna take this shelf out carefully this shelf is

just a glass shelf so we don't want to drop it or damage it in any way now

we'll take out the middle shelf support

and so now that we've got all that stuff out of the way we can get to our bottom

glass shelf here and to get it out we're gonna pull this drawer out slightly

reach in and push up and then just carefully slide that glass shelf out of

this place and once we get it out a certain amount just angle it up so it'll

fit out the doors now you can grab your new OEM replacement glass shelf and if

you don't have one already you can find it on our online store and

now we're going to put our shelf in so we're just gonna angle it slightly so it

fits in between the doors here and once we get it in nice and gently

set it down onto the support here and we'll bring it back all the way back and

there's a couple of there's a notch right there which you'll see that the

glass sits on and then it just slides into place and I'll just close this

drawer up put the rest of everything back in now we'll put our shelf back

into place and you're gonna want to make sure that the rounded end that has the

cutout back here goes towards the back

and once you've got it in place it should sit on both the supports on

either end and now we can put our glass shelf back into place and angling it

because the doors are wide and once you've got it in there gently set it on

the shelf just like that now we're going to put our crisper drawers back in and

what you're going to want to do is just make sure the wheels on either side line

up with the track there so it slides in nice and easy same thing on this side

they're just lining up those wheels with the track and you'll see right there it

wasn't lined up so it didn't go in we'll try it again and there we go now we can

close our refrigerator doors and your repair is complete what do you get for a

pampered towel spoiled milk finally don't forget to plug in your appliance

if you need to replace any parts for your appliances you can find an OEM

replacement part on our website pcappliancerepair.com thanks for

watching and please don't forget to like comment and share our video also don't

forget to subscribe to our channel your support helps us make more videos just

like these for you to watch for free

For more infomation >> WPW10248799 - Replacing Your Maytag Fridge's Glass Pantry Shelf AP6017760 PS11751060 - Duration: 4:43.

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W10311986 - Replacing Your Whirlpool Dishwasher's Lower Rack Assembly AP4512509 PS2378335 - Duration: 3:16.

hi my name is Bill and today I want to be showing you how to replace the lower

rack assembly in your dishwasher the reason why you might have to do this is

because the rack is damaged warning before doing any repairs please

disconnect your power source so this is the dishwasher we're going to be using

for this demonstration it's a whirlpool and now keep in mind yours at home might

be a little bit different than what we have here but the same technique should

still apply also keep in mind you don't have a countertop for this so we're

actually using some weights to keep it weighted down so it doesn't tip over on

us so you might want to consider that when you're at home and if you have to

take out your dishwasher make sure that you're not doing anything to tip it over

and make it fall on you when you're doing your repair as well the first

thing we're gonna do is open up our dishwasher here and now we can remove

the lower rack assembly and that'll just roll right out and we'll take out our

silverware basket assembly here now you can grab your new OEM replacement lower

rack assembly if you don't have one already you can find it on our online

store so now we're going to have to put the lower rack assembly together it's

gonna come with these wheels here and what we're going to do is there's a tab

on the top there and they kind of go crisscross so one goes on the inside

there and this part goes on the outside then this goes on the inside again and

then you've also got the part on the bottom right there

so we're going to actually clip that into place on the bottom here and it

just snaps right on and it shouldn't move so we'll do that with all of them

put one in each corner and now that we have the rack assembled you can set

it on the door here right where the tracks go and we can put in our

silverware basket assembly here and then we can just roll the basket back

close up the door and your repair is complete

finally don't forget to plug in your appliance if you need to replace any

parts for your appliances you can find an OEM replacement part on our website

pcappliancerepair.com thanks for watching and please don't forget to like

comment and share our video also don't forget to subscribe to our channel your

support helps us make more videos just like these for you to watch for free

For more infomation >> W10311986 - Replacing Your Whirlpool Dishwasher's Lower Rack Assembly AP4512509 PS2378335 - Duration: 3:16.

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Tik Tok Free Followers - How to get Fans on Tik Tok ? - Duration: 5:58.

My new video is on how to get fans on Tik Tok for free, this is something that should give you an access to that tik tok followers hack so I really hope you will enjoy watching this guys and tell me how it worked in comments!

For more infomation >> Tik Tok Free Followers - How to get Fans on Tik Tok ? - Duration: 5:58.

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Pele BRANCA e CRISTALINA em 5 Dias! ADEUS MANCHAS, PELE + LIMPA e Com BRILHO INVEJÁVEL! - Duration: 2:46.

For more infomation >> Pele BRANCA e CRISTALINA em 5 Dias! ADEUS MANCHAS, PELE + LIMPA e Com BRILHO INVEJÁVEL! - Duration: 2:46.

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Printerland Review: Lexmark MC2425adw A4 Colour Multifunction Printer - Duration: 1:58.

For more infomation >> Printerland Review: Lexmark MC2425adw A4 Colour Multifunction Printer - Duration: 1:58.

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Using dialog in Android | How to use a dialog for an alert requiring a decision. - Duration: 3:59.

For more infomation >> Using dialog in Android | How to use a dialog for an alert requiring a decision. - Duration: 3:59.

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Lensko - Let's Go! [NSC Release] - Duration: 3:28.

❤️Thanks for watching. Please like, share, comment and subscribe our channel.❤️