Hey everybody I'm Justin and welcome back to my Pit Lane garage today we have my
1994 325is in the garage here we're going to do some work to this thing I
actually signed up for an HPDE event with the NASA Racing Club in a week
or so so I have a lot of stuff I got to get done on the car primarily the new
Stoptech brake rotors and Hawk DTC 60 brake pads that I bought a little while
back if you missed that video go back and check it out and see what we'll be
putting on we're going to be heading to Pueblo Motorsports Park down in
Pueblo Colorado so it should be fun we're going to get the car up on a QuickJack
and get this thing started
all right we got the car up in the air and no time flat thanks to the QuickJack
so we're going to start getting the tires off then start working on
taking the front brakes apart and then the back brakes apart we'll show you guys
what we're doing and give you an idea of how it's done
all right wheels are off let's see what we've got going on under here so we have
our crusty old stock rotor we're going to change that out with the Stoptech
rotor the pads in there are actually Ferodo DS2500 so not too terrible of a
pad but not very efficient for doing track work so we'll change those out for
the Hawk DTC60's and we've got some nice cobwebs growing up in here a little bit
of dirt and bugs we might try to clean this stuff off a little bit while we're
under there but I'm not too worried about it eventually I need to send those
shocks in for a rebuild and inspection anyways and we'll take a look at the new
stuff that we'll be installing here again our Stoptech slotted rotor and
the big Hawk DTC 60 brake pads alright so getting the brakes removed on the e36
BMW is a little bit more tricky than my BRZ or my FRS was it's a 23 year old car
obviously things are a little bit different but starting off we've got to
get the caliper back off and that requires taking off this clip on
the front here which you can use a screwdriver to kind of pry it out get it
out of the holes in the caliper and it'll just kind of twist on out of there
it takes a little bit of finagling but not terribly difficult and then on the
back of the caliper there is a couple little rubber boots that have these
rubber caps in them you have to pull those caps off grab a hex wrench and you
can use that to start taking out the bolts behind the caliper here
here's what the bolt looks like there's one on the top behind the caliper and
then one down below as well we'll get both of those outs second bolt is out
from the bottom of the caliper and just a quick correction the allen key that
you use is actually a 7mm you'll use a 6mm for this
bolt that holds the rotor in which we'll get to in just a minute here once
you have the two bolts out from the back of the caliper the caliper will slide
out backwards we kind of just got a finagle it and wiggle it out of there
now on one side of the car maybe both of them you're going to have a brake pad
sensor that's stuck down in here on the brake pad itself you want to make sure
you pop that out with a screwdriver if it is there mine is on the other side of
the car once the calipers out our brake pads fall out this one in the back is
actually clamped into the piston so you can grab the edges pop it out you'll see
it's got the little feet there or whatever you want to call kind of clamp
it into the inside of the piston now one thing you're going to need to do before
you put the caliper and the new brake pads and the new rotor in two places
you're going to have to push the caliper piston back in to the caliper because
when you have brand new pads obviously they're thicker than the ones that were
in there before so they're not going to fit if you try to put the caliper back
on what I do is I grab a clamp like this a little C clamp and a piece of metal
stock put the piece of metal stock over the face of the piston and my C clamp
over the top and then you can just start tightening it down once it's snug you're
going to start cranking away and the piston will push its way back into the caliper
so that should be good it up also you want to make sure your caliper doesn't
go falling off in behind the rotor here obviously you don't want it to hang off
of brake line so you can take it and set it down below on the lower control arm
and it'll just hang out down there or you can use a piece of wire or something
to tie it up to a spring coil or something like that next thing we got to
do is get the caliper carrier off the back of the hub and it's a couple 16
millimeter bolts one down here and then one up here on the top we just have to
remove those guys okay we have the carrier out pretty simple just a couple
of these bolts these things are incredibly nasty looking someday I'll
upgrade the calipers on this card or something a little bit nicer something
that doesn't corrode like these things do they'll still work plenty fine but
they just kind of look ugly so far so good so next thing we want to do is get
the rotor off so grab the little 6mm hex wrench there's one little
bolt holding it in place
once your bolt is out it's just a matter of sliding the rotor off and there's our
stock rotor blank all right now that everything is a part going to clean
everything up get all of the old Anti squeal anti squeak off of all of these
nuts and bolts where I had it before see it's kind of gunked up on there clean
off the face of the hub now is also probably a good time to check your hub
give it some spins listen for any sandy or crackly grinding noise and just to
make sure your bearing isn't shot if you do hear some nastiness when spinning the
hub you probably want to replace it alright it's time to grab our new stoptech
rotor they do go on a specific side so you want to make sure you put them on
the proper side this one has an R on it meaning the right side the way that the
grooves or the slots go in the rotor is that they're aimed forward will make
sure you line up our hole and grab our little bolts
make sure that bolt is nice and snug it's a very low torque setting so we
just kind of got to get it hand tight don't go crazy with it and these rotors
they come ready to run you don't need to clean them off or anything like that
like I did with my AP racing rotors so nothing that you need to do for prep
just slap them on there and they're good to go
now we start reinstalling the parts in the reverse order of the carrier goes on
just as it came off now the carrier bolts do get tightened down to 81
pound-feet of torque so grab your torque wrench crank those suckers down so next
up I'm going to grab some of my brake discs quiet going to lube up the contact
points where the brake pads touch the caliper
grab my outer brake pads a new Hawk DTC 60 just slides into place like so
grab your one with the little flex pieces on its or whatever you want to
call those guys grab your caliper and slide this one into the caliper lock it
into place just like that then we can go ahead and slide the caliper hopefully
we've got enough room when we push the caliper piston back we did slide it over
like that grab your long mounting bolts for the
caliper which I got dirty get these guys tightened down and these are also kind
of like hand tight at least that's what I do with them but look up the torque
spec because they kind of go until the bolt stops the way that the bolt is
designed so there's no real torquing of it or there probably is and I'm just
being lazy one more thing is getting your little retaining clips back into
place this can be a little bit of a pain but you kind of line up the outside arms
first one on top one on the bottom that you can kind of squeeze it into the
center holes actually that one went it's super easy so I got kind of lucky but
that does it now we've got shop tech rotors on there
the Hawk DTC60 pads now we do need to go and bleed the brakes I haven't done
the rears on the car yet but they are pretty much identical to doing the
brakes on the front it's almost the exact same process you do have the ebrake on
the back so it's not a huge deal also don't forget to take your brake line
make sure you reattach it to the mount point on the shock there's the little
rubber grommets in the back here that keeps it in place all right everybody
the front brakes are on new Stoptech rotors new Hawk DTC60 pads I'm going
do the rear ones offline here let's check out the front brakes and time for
rapid fire rear brake disassembly we took out the retaining clip on the front
of the caliper now we're working on the caliper guide pins they're coming out
the backside two of them just like in the front drop in our caliper out
removing the brake pads at the caliper down on the block next up is removing
the carrier two bolts just like in the front comes right out
taking out the single 6mm bolts on the front cleaning up our drum
brake cleaning up the caliper or slapping on our new rotor torque and
that guy down to 12 pound-feet putting the carrier bolts in the back these ones
are different than the front 48 pound-feet of torque for those rear
carrier bolts lubricating the brake pad contact points don't get any on the
brake pads of themselves now we're getting ready to put our caliper back
together brake pad is being pressed into the piston itself caliper is on I'm
actually putting the brake pad sensor into that pad caliper guide pins are
going back in again we torque those down to 22 pound feet of torque
reinsert the clip to the front and you have the finished product the rear
brakes are done on the car alright everybody we're going to wrap this one
up didn't go to in depth on flushing and bleeding the brake system or get to that
in the future a more detailed how-to on how to do that process but we did get in
Stoptech rotors installed along with the Hawk DTC 60 brake pads on my e36 BMW
thanks again everybody for watching if you have any thoughts or comments as
always leave them down below we would love to hear from you and I will talk to
you all next time
If you would like an alternative to casually picking up girls and trying to find out the right thing to say...
Trả lờiXóaIf you'd rather have women hit on YOU, instead of spending your nights prowling around in filthy bars and night clubs...
Then I urge you to view this eye-opening video to uncover a shocking little secret that might get you your own harem of sexy women:
FACEBOOK SEDUCTION SYSTEM!!!