today I'm building this walnut' nightstand and I'm going to go in depth
on my method of how I cut the miter so the grain flows around the corners and
all four minors fit perfectly the first time.
so let's get into it
this build starts off like any other cutting to lengths
milling to thickness and joining edges, with one exception.
I'm keeping the boards for the sides and top as one length to help ensure the
grain matches on the mitered corners. I'll cut them apart after I do the glue up.
Once I got everything milled to thickness and edge jointed I use some
floating Tenon's to help keep everything in line during glue up. Once the glue is
dry cut the sides and top to length I labeled each piece to keep track of
where it goes in the project so I don't end up with a mismatched grain pattern.
When I lined up the track saw I took my time to be sure I was cutting 90 degrees
to the edge this is especially important because if you're off and need to make a
second cut to straighten it out you risk messing up the grain match
on the corners. The more of material we remove the worse the match will be until
the two ends get so far away from each other they no longer match at all.
Now that I cut them to length I cut them to their final width making sure I oriented
them so I was always ripping off the back edge.
To prep the work pieces to be mitered I milled some scrap pine wood and
edge jointed it so I would have a straight edge to guide my work pieces.
I used some CA glue to attach them.
I butted both pieces against the table saw fence to
ensure the edges would line up. Once they were prepped it was time to set the saw
up to cut the miters.
First I set up a sacrificial fence I could screw too, then I used a scrap
piece milled to the same thickness as the nightstands to set the height of my
auxilary fence and screwed it in place
I made sure my scrap slid snuggling underneath the auxiliary fence. Then I
glued on a runner to ride along the auxiliary fence as I did before.
Now setting the blade is the most important part. I took the time to adjust
it so it cuts at a perfect 45 degrees. Then I raised the blade so the outside of
the tooth just kisses the outside of the edge of the auxiliary fence. I ran my test
piece to be sure it was right to the edge no more no less.
and a perfect 45 degrees before running the rest of the pieces. Once all the
pieces were mitered all it took was a couple of taps from a mallet to remove
the pine strips. Since glue alone in a miter joint is
that strong I used some floating tenons to reinforce the joint. If you don't have a
Festool Domino you can easily jig up a router to make your mortises.
Before I do the final glue up I cut a dado in the back edge to accept the back panel.
Walnut plywood is crazy expensive and I need less than a half of the sheet for
this project so use some quarter-inch birch ply as a core and re-sawed some
walnut to veneer over it.
I cleaned up the edges, tape them together, applied a little glue, and threw
it in the veneer bag. While the bag sucked tight I made sure nothing had
slipped and everything was still lined up.
Finally ready for assembly. I used
some CA glue to attach some clamping blocks to the edges to give me something
to clamp to. Then flip them over to apply the glue.
Prior to glue up I did pre finish the inside faces and taped off the edges so
I wouldn't get any squeeze out on the finish . There are a lot of floating
Tenon's and edges to apply glue to so I gave myself a little extra working time
and use the slow set epoxy to do the glue up.
The top piece took a little convincing to get in place. With a little brute
force and some help with a few parallel clamps it popped right in place...... sort of.
I'd measure the diagonals to be sure it was square and let the glue set up so I
can knock off the glue blocks and move on to cutting the decorative bevel on
the front. I put my sacrificial fence back on and elevated it slightly above
the blade. This created some space between the blade and the fence and the
cut off would not get trapped and reduce the chance of kickback. The angle and
height of the blade is just an arbitrary number determined by a few test cuts on
some scrap wood. I adjusted it until I found an angle I thought looked good
that day then muscled up the case on the table saw and cut the bevel. To create
the legs I laminated up some eight quarter lumber and milled and square.
I set a stopped on my miter gauge to cut them to length. The pieces were so short
and the blade was so tall I opted to clamp each piece to the miter gauge as I
cut them
To cut the mortises for the floating Tenon's I screwed some scrap plywood to
the table to make a quick jig to hold the small pieces and plunged away
cutting two mortises per leg.
Then for the corresponding mortises I did a little layout on the bottom of the
nightstands. While standing on my assembly table I cut the mortises for them.
While trying to keep track of which side had the mortises I marked out for the
decorative angle to be cut on the legs.
I sliced the angles off at the band-saw
I use a little blue tape to hold the cutoff on until I cut the opposing angle
it seemed a little safer that way.
Then cleaning the saw marks up at the disk sander before gluing them in place.
To make the drawers, it was back to prepping the material. I took my time
with the jointer to be sure I had a good square edge. It makes it a lot easier to fit
the drawers in the opening if everything is nice and square. To cut the Dovetails
in the drawers I used a leigh dove tail jig. It may be a bit complicated to use
but well worth the time to figure out if you're doing any kind of production work.
Then I set up my dado stack to run a data for the bottom panel. I set it up so
it would pass between the pins of the drawer fronts and through the lower tail
of the drawer sides. This way when it is put together you don't see the dado and
I don't have to deal with chopping a stop dado on the ends. I find it easier
to cut the drawer sides a little long, then cut them to final length after
cutting the dovetails. This way I don't have to compensate for the length of the
tail before it's cut. I can do a test-fit of the drawer and measure exactly how
much to cut off the sides. Then I cut it to length and route the end of the drawer sides
to accept the back
Do another dry assembly to measure the length for the drawer box. Once I
have all the parts cut out I add some glue to the dovetails, tap them together,
slide them back in place and use a pin nailer along with some glue to install
the backs
No matter how careful I am, there is always an edge of the drawer that is not
perfectly flush. But it's nothing I can't fix with a few strokes of a hand plane.
I'm using blum self-closing drawer glides for this project. It seemes complicated
to install but all you really need is their setup jig. Use the same jig to
pre-drill all the holes. There are two in the back of the drawer for the alignment
pin, then switch to a smaller drill bit and turn the jig sideways to pre-drill
for the screws to attach the drawer glide to the drawer bottom. It's that simple.
To install the drawer glides inside the nightstand I cut two spacers to the correct
height out of some scrap plywood. I rested the glide on the spacers while I
pre-drilled and screwed them in place. I then move them to the other side to
ensure I have the guides install at the same height. I did the same thing for the
middle glide and then rested the bottom guide on the bottom of the cabinet while
attaching it.
All you have to do now is just drop the drawers on the hardware
and they click right in place.
I just need to finish on my drawer fronts.
thank you for making it all the way through the project. If you want to see
more cool builds like these please join me on patreon. The more people that hang
out over there, the cooler the projects I'll be able to build in the future,
and of course please subscribe and hit the bell to get notified when the next video
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