Hey, what's up, guys.
I'm Ryan from ExtremeTerrain.
And today, I'm here with the Rough Country two and a half-inch suspension lift kit fitting
your 2018 and up Wrangler JL.
This is gonna be for the budget-minded enthusiast that's looking for a very affordable option
to gain them some additional ground clearance.
This kit makes it very affordable to lift your Jeep by reusing all of the factory suspension,
so we're not spending extra money on buying springs and shocks.
Now, this kit lifts your Jeep, retains that factory ride quality somewhat and allows you
to fit up to a 35-inch tire which is gonna gain you some additional ground clearance.
Now, this kit comes with heavy-duty shock brackets and spacers as well as bumps stops
and even aftermarket sway bar links.
This is everything needed to lift your Jeep and get it back on the road for under $200.
Now, as far as lift kits go, this is a relatively easy one to install.
There's no drilling or modification required that we need to do to the Jeep.
Now, as far as these spacer kits go, this is an incredibly affordable option.
It's just around $180.
I think this is a great way to go, especially if you're not trying to spend a lot of money.
One thing I would like to point out is if you plan on running 35s on those stock wheels,
you want a wheel spacer of at least one and a half inches.
If you're planning on going with aftermarket wheels, you want a backspacing of at least
four and a half inches.
Now, as far as installation goes, I am gonna rate this a three-out-of-three wrenches on
the difficulty meter since we are dealing with suspension.
However, expect this to take you about a half a day, and you can get all this done with
basic hand tools.
Now, with that being said, let's hop into the install.
Tools we use for this install: Pry bar, 3/8 drive impact, half-inch drive impact, crayon,
six-millimeter Allen key, 3/8 drive extension, an adjustable wrench, dead blow hammer, prying
tool, standard and metric wrench set, flathead screwdriver, magnet, 3/8 drive ratchet, quarter-inch
drive ratchet, standard and metric socket set, a ratchet strap, and a torque wrench.
So, there are two ways that you can do this.
You can do it on a lift like we're gonna do it, or you can do it on the ground.
Now, if you're doing it on the ground, you wanna start with the front, jack it up, support
it with jack stands and take your wheels and tires off.
You're gonna need a 22-millimeter socket to take your wheels and tires off.
Now, we already have ours on the lift.
We've already taken our wheels and tires off, so we're gonna start with a splash shield.
Splash shield is gonna give us access to the track bar.
So, this is held in by a series of push pins, and we have two screws.
You're gonna start with push pins.
We're gonna use a flathead screwdriver to pry out the center and then remove this from
the vehicle.
Like I said, you are gonna have two screws.
You're gonna have one on both sides.
We're gonna use an eight-millimeter socket to take those screws out.
So, I'm gonna place a hand on it, take this last screw out and remove it from the vehicle.
So, next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna take our pull jacks.
We're gonna support the axle so we can remove our track bar.
So, the next thing we're gonna do is remove our track bar where it meets the frame.
So, we're gonna take a 21-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench if you have one
or an adjustable.
The next thing we're gonna do is remove our sway bar links.
Now, since we have brand new links to install, we're gonna remove them completely.
We're gonna start with where it connects to the sway bar.
Use an 18-millimeter socket to get that nut off.
After that, we're gonna use another 18-millimeter socket to take out the lower bolt.
So, the next thing we need to do is free up and unplug our axle disconnect.
So, you're gonna have a spot here at the upper control arm.
We're gonna pry that out using a flathead screwdriver, trim panel removal tool.
Pretty much anything you can find.
Once we get that out, we're gonna free this area up right here, then we're gonna unplug
this.
So, the way we're gonna unplug it, you're gonna have this white little locking tab.
You're gonna pull that tab all the way back, and that should allow us to unplug it.
So, next, on the outside of our lower control arm, we're gonna take this nut off.
This nut holds our AVS and our brake line.
Use a 15-millimeter socket to take that off.
Now, after that, we're gonna disconnect our lower shock bolts.
We're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench for the nut, 18-millimeter socket for the bolthead,
and take that bolt out.
All right.
So, the last thing we're gonna do before we lower this axle down, we don't wanna damage
the end of the drive shaft where it meets the trans kit.
So, we're gonna disconnect it from our axle.
So, what we're gonna do is take a crayon, and we're gonna mark where this lines up.
That way, when we put it back together, we put it back in the same exact spot.
After you've done that, you wanna get a bungee ready and a 15-millimeter socket because we're
gonna take all four of these bolts out to spin that bad boy up and out of the way.
So, we're just gonna pry this back a little bit and find a good spot to hang it.
So, after that, you're gonna lower the axle down enough that you can get these springs
out.
So, we're just gonna lift them up off of the bottom pad and pull them out.
So, we got the whole front torn apart, and we are just about ready to install this new
kit, put all that suspension back in.
But before we do that, I just wanna tell you a little bit about what this kit comes with.
Now, why do we wanna lift our Jeep?
So, we want more ground clearance, right?
We wanna add larger tires.
This is gonna add to that aggressive look.
It's also gonna add to the capability of our Wranglers.
So, most kits, more expensive kits are going to come with brand new springs and shocks.
This is gonna cost you a little more.
It's also gonna change up that ride quality.
So, if you want a really affordable option to go with, a spacer lift kit is the way to
go.
Now, this kit comes with coil spring spacers.
These spaces are going to give you the height.
They're gonna retain that factory spring, allow you to reuse it, and that's going to
keep that ride quality from the factory.
Now, since we are pushing the axle further away, we need longer shocks.
Instead of adding new shocks and spending all that extra money, we're gonna go with
shock relocation brackets.
This is gonna add some length to that and allow us to reuse those factory shocks.
Now, another nice thing about this kit is it comes with brand new sway bar end link.
We need longer ones because we are pushing the axle further away.
This is gonna flatten out that sway bar and just add to that ride quality.
Now, this kit is gonna allow you to run larger tires up to a 35-inch tire.
And if you are planning on running larger tires, you'll need bumps stops.
This kit comes with bumps stops front and rear.
This is gonna keep you from jamming that tire up into the fender and doing any damage.
This kit is incredibly affordable and pretty easy to install since we're basically reusing
all the factory components.
So, with that being said, let's show you how this gets put back together, what it looks
like on the Jeep.
First thing we're gonna do is take our factory isolator out.
You're gonna have a little rubber isolator out here.
We're just gonna pull that up and off of the bump stop.
Then, we're gonna slide our spring spacer on.
Now, you're gonna have two different spacers.
You want the one that looks like this for the front.
So, that's gonna go up and on there, then we're gonna put that isolator back on.
So, after that, we're gonna install our spring.
Now, we have a bump stop that's actually gonna go on the pad on the axle.
So, we wanna get that up inside of the spring while we're doing that because we're not gonna
be able to fit it through the coils.
So, we're gonna take the tightly wound section for the top, and we're gonna place that up
and in.
So, with our spring staged, we're gonna get our bump stop up and in there, then we're
gonna put this up over the mount.
Now, there is a stop on the axle so we wanna turn our little pigtail until it hits that
stop.
After that, we're gonna bolt this bump stop onto the axle.
So, you're gonna have a bag of hardware that has two silver bolts, two silver flat washers,
and then two gold nuts.
This is gonna be for the front bump stops.
So we're gonna drop a bolt with a flat washer on there.
Make sure that it goes through that hole in the axle mount and then we're gonna put the
nut on the bottom.
Now, that's a pretty hard spot to reach, so I'm gonna use a magnet to try to get up in
there to put this thing on.
If you have to get that on there, we're gonna use a 14-millimeter wrench and a 14-millimeter
socket to tighten this up.
Now that we have the springs in, next thing we're gonna do is install our shock brackets.
So you're gonna have longer shock extension brackets.
These are for the front.
It has a curve in it.
We're gonna face that curve towards the front.
Then, you're gonna open the bag of hardware, and you're gonna have a series of new bolts
and these sleeves.
The sleeves are to go inside of this, so we're gonna start with this hole first.
We're gonna reuse our factory bolt.
So, what we're gonna do is place this bracket over top of it just like that, line these
holes up, then we're gonna place our sleeve inside, pass our factory bolt through, then
we're gonna put the nut back on the other side.
Now, in that bag of hardware, you're gonna use the smallest bolts that they give.
We're gonna place a flat washer on there.
This is gonna go up through the bottom.
And then on the inside, we're gonna place this nut.
After that, we can tighten all this up.
So, we're gonna tighten this small bolt first.
We're gonna use a 9/16-inch wrench, 9/16-inch socket to tighten that up.
After that, we're gonna switch to an 18-millimeter socket and a wrench.
We're gonna tighten up this factory bolt.
In that same kit, you're gonna get four gold bolts.
We're gonna place a large flat washer on those, then you're gonna have this large flange nut.
This is gonna be used for this other bolt hole.
So, we're gonna raise our axle a little bit, pull our shock down.
Once we get that lined up, we'll install that hardware through there, then we're gonna take
a 19-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter wrench and tighten it up.
Then you wanna torque that to 55 foot-pounds.
After that, we're gonna reconnect our brake lines to our lower control arms.
We're just gonna press that bracket back on there, reinstall that factory nut, tighten
it up with a 15.
After that, we can do our axle disconnect.
So we're gonna plug that back in, push in that white locking tab, and then we wanna
put these back into their mounts.
After that, we can reinstall our front drive shaft.
Now, we're gonna reuse those factory bolts.
We use a 15-millimeter socket to tighten them all up, then you can torque them to 89 foot-pounds.
So, we wanna line up those chalk marks.
So, one of the last steps on the front is to install our brand new sway bar end links.
We're gonna use the bent links, and we're gonna reuse the factory bolt for the bottom
hole.
So, we're gonna start with that first.
We're gonna get that lined up, face our bolt in towards the Jeep, and then get that flag
nut on there.
Now, for the top, we're gonna use the brand new hardware that they give us.
You're gonna have a bag that's strictly for the sway bar end links.
We're gonna have four gold bolts, six washers, and four nuts.
So, we're gonna place a flat washer on one of the gold bolts.
We're gonna go from the outside in, then we're gonna do a large flange nut on the inside.
So, once you get both of those links in, we're gonna take an 18-millimeter socket, tighten
up the bottom bolt, and then we'll get to the top.
Now, for the top, you need a 19-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter wrench, tighten those
up, and then you can torque both of these to 55 foot-pounds.
Now, there's two ways you can do this.
You can wait till you're all done, put the wheels and tires back on, sit it on the ground
with the weight of the vehicle and use the steering wheel to line up the track bar with
this mount in the frame.
Or you can do what we're gonna do and use a ratchet strap.
Now, if you are gonna use a ratchet strap up in the air, you need to be really careful
because you are dealing with suspension, stuff under tension.
So, I'm gonna show you how to do it with a ratchet strap right now.
So, the first thing we're gonna do is find a nice area to hook into the frame.
After we find a nice area to hook into the frame, we need to hook the other end to the
axle, somewhere where it's not gonna get in the way.
After that, we're gonna use a ratchet strap to shift the axle over.
This is gonna help us to line this hole up.
Once it's close, we're gonna reinstall that factory bolt.
Once you get that bolt in, we can reinstall the factory nut, then we're gonna tighten
it up with our 21-millimeter.
So, the next thing we're doing is moving to the rear.
First thing we're gonna do is support the axle.
This way, we can take the track bar out.
So, we're gonna take the bolt out of the track bar where it meets the axle.
We're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket, and there's a flag nut on the back, so you don't
need a tool for that.
Once we get that out, we're gonna pull this bolt out, and you wanna keep a hand on that
because it might drop down a little bit.
So, next thing we're gonna do is remove our factory sway bar links.
We're gonna start with the bottom bolt.
We're gonna take that bolt out with an 18-millimeter socket and a wrench.
Now, we wanna save this factory hardware because we're gonna reuse it.
So, to get the top ones off, it's a little different.
We're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench and a six-millimeter Allen key.
At the end of the axle right behind the brake rotor, you're gonna have a brake line bracket
here.
We're gonna use a 13-millimeter socket to take that bolt out.
Next thing we're gonna do is disconnect the bottom of the shock.
There's gonna be an 18-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter wrench.
So, the next thing we're gonna do is lower the axle down.
That way we can get the springs out.
Now, we're gonna lift them up off of the bottom perch and pull them out.
Next, we're gonna install our rear coil spring spacers.
So, you're gonna have this washer nut plate, so this is actually gonna go on top of the
rear spring [inaudible 00:16:25].
That's gonna sit right over top of that like that.
Then, we're gonna take our new two and a half-inch gold bolt, and we're gonna put that up through
our spring spacer, and then we're gonna screw it into that nut plate.
So, once that's in, we're gonna take a three-quarter-inch wrench, three-quarter-inch socket.
We're gonna center it the best that we can, and then we're gonna tighten it up.
Next thing we're gonna do is take our factory spring.
We're gonna place our isolator on top of it, so you're gonna have a little stop on there.
You wanna make sure that that lines up with a little pigtail there, then we're gonna put
it back in the Jeep.
After that, we're gonna set the bottom where it was in the factory position, then we'll
put a little tension on it.
You're gonna do the same thing for the other side.
So, after we get that axle up in the air a little bit, we're gonna put our brake lines
back on.
We're gonna reinstall those factory bolts and use a 13-millimeter on an extension to
tighten them back up.
So, next, we're gonna install our bump stops on the rear.
We're gonna have two holes in the bottom of this block.
We're gonna use this small little gold hardware that they gave us.
So, you have these little tiny gold bolts, each one is going to get a nut and a flat
washer.
So, we're gonna place these over these pads on the axle, and we're gonna put the flat
washer on the little gold bolt, drop that down through, and then we're gonna install
the nut on the bottom.
Get both of those in, and then we'll tighten them up with two 9/16-inch wrenches.
Next, we're gonna reinstall our shock relocation bracket.
So, this is gonna have a little bit of an offset.
We wanna face that towards the rear.
This is going to slide over the bracket and the same thing as the fronts.
We're gonna have this sleeve that goes inside of here.
So, we're gonna place this sleeve in here, insert our factory bolt all the way through,
out the other side, put that factory nut back on.
Now, for this lower hole, we're gonna have a rather large short bolt.
This is gonna get a flat washer on it, and it's gonna come up through the bottom and
get this large nylon lock nut.
So, the first thing we're gonna do is tighten this bottom one.
So, we're gonna use a three-quarter-inch wrench and socket to tighten up this lower bolt.
After that, we're gonna tighten our factory bolt with an 18-millimeter wrench and socket.
So, we're gonna take the supplied hardware that they gave us, place a flat washer on
there and then we're gonna use one of these flange nuts.
So, we'll need to pull down onto this shock to line that hole up, then we can get that
bolt through.
After you get that installed, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket for the bolt and
an 18-millimeter for the nut.
So, after that, we're gonna install our brand new end links.
We're gonna use our factory hardware for the bottom and the supplied hardware for the top.
So, we're gonna start with the bottom.
Drop our link down, install our bolt, put the nut on, then we get the top installed.
So, we're gonna take our 12-millimeter by 65-millimeter bolt.
We're gonna place a flat washer on the head, and then we are going to slide this through
our sway bar and then install our flange nut.
So, to tighten it up, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket for the bolt head and an 18-millimeter
socket for the flange nut.
Then to tighten the bottom, we're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter wrench.
So, just like the front, you can wait till you get this thing on the ground, get that
track bar bolt back in, or you can do with a ratchet strap.
We're gonna do it with a ratchet strap.
So, you wanna find a good spot to hook on into the frame.
Now, this track bar seems to be pretty close unlike the front so we shouldn't have to move
it too much.
So, reinstall that factory bolt, put the flange nut on the backside.
Now, we can tighten it up with a 21-millimeter.
So, at this point in time, we are all done with the installation of this lift kit.
You can go ahead and put your wheels and tires back on, torque them down the factory specs.
After that, you wanna get an alignment.
When you get an alignment, have them recheck all of the fasteners.
All right.
That's gonna wrap up my review and install.
For more videos like this, check us out at extremeterrain.com.
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