Thứ Ba, 17 tháng 4, 2018

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For more infomation >> Try Not To Laugh Challenge - Funny Kids Fails 2018 | Life Awesome - Duration: 10:20.

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How to destroy the Jumbo❓ / War Thunder - Duration: 5:51.

Fighting this tank is a nightmare for many tankers.

An almost invulnerable hulk of a tank with a quick-firing 75mm gun.

A real pubstomper at its BR.

Its name is... the Jumbo.

Are you afraid?

You should be.

This beefed up Sherman sits comfortably at the BR of 4.7.

What can we say?

If an owner of a Jumbo knows what he or she's doing, it can be a tough opponent even for a Tiger!

But today we will bring it down...using this humble tank.

Moreover, our advice will help you to prevail on virtually any kind of vehicle

that can actually meet the Jumbo in battle.

The very first thing you need to know is that even though the average armour of the Jumbo is around 137 mm thick

in combat conditions and while angling

it can easily get up to between 150 and 165 mm.

Basically, the front side of the Jumbo is mostly impervious to damage

but you don't actually have to penetrate any armour at this point.

What you need to do is to destroy the opponent's gun barrel.

The Jumbo doesn't have the fastest turret traverse speed; make use of the fact!

It will take your enemy some considerable time to both aim his or her gun at you

and move the gun away.

Got the enemy's gun barrel? Perfect.

Half of your job is done.

Now make sure that the Jumbo won't get away.

Blast the tracks off and that's it, the enemy is basically in the palm of your hand.

Yeah, keep firing those little machine guns, you do you!

It is a little early to pat yourself on the back, though.

The sad reality is that many of your opponents will have a high Repair skill,

so don't hesitate to deliver a final blow!

You have a few different options.

Take a gander at this part of the tank. That's their ammo rack.

Don't shoot at it. Why?

It's not an easy shot, and you can't be sure that it will actually blow up.

That's why a better option is to just shoot at your enemy's side, somewhere in the middle.

Yes, this way it might take more than a single hit to take care of the Jumbo

but you are very likely to eliminate two or three enemy crewmembers,

which means that the opponent won't be able to move or to shoot for a longer period of time.

Here's another idea.

People who own Jumbo often go to great pains to hide their lower front plate.

There is a reason they do that.

Yes, its armour is still mostly just as thick as the one of the glacis

but take a look at these high spots.

Here its armour is only 130 to 140 mm thick depending on the angle

Which is quite penetrable with a lot of guns at this BR!

What you shouldn't do is to shoot at the mantlet or the turret itself.

180 mm of armour on the mantlet and the effective thickness of 250 mm are no joke!

If you are ready to risk it or simply have only one shot left

try to hit the spot right under the enemy's mantlet.

If you do everything right, there is a chance that your shell will rickochet right into the layer of armour that is only 20mm thick

and pierce the opponent's roof.

Yeah, the higher the caliber, the easier it is to pull this off.

Method number four.

If you resorted to CQC, try to land a shot in the spot between the machine-gun nest and the upper front plate.

It's certainly not the easiest of shots... but the reward is worth the effort

another enemy blown to smithereens!

Now a few words about the times when you have to fight a Jumbo...on another Jumbo.

The French have it, and it isn't rare to see Americans fighting the French in War Thunder.

so what should you do?

Well, look no further than our advice No 1

try to destroy the opponent's gun barrel.

Whoever manages to do it first, is very likely to win the engagement.

After that, prioritize enemy tracks...and reposition yourself so that you can shoot at the opponent's side.

At that point you know what to do.

Finish him!

Just don't get caught in the moment, be aware of your surroundings.

This Jumbo might have friends after all.

Is there anything that we missed?

Do tell us in the comments below!

For more infomation >> How to destroy the Jumbo❓ / War Thunder - Duration: 5:51.

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Kendrick Lamar Makes History as the First Rapper to Win a Pulitzer - Duration: 1:28.

What's up, guys?

Frazier here for Complex News.

Kendrick Lamar has made history.

The Compton rapper has won a Pulitzer Prize in Music for his 2017 album Damn.

It's the first time a non-jazz or non-classical album has won the prestigious award in its

decades-long history, better late than never, I suppose.

Pulitzer Prize administrator Dana Canedy, while announcing the winner of the award,

called the critically acclaimed album:

"a virtuosic song collection unified by its vernacular authenticity and rhythmic dynamism

that offers affecting vignettes capturing the complexity of modern African-American

life."

So, how'd it all come about?

Well, Canedy, who took the position of Pulitzer Prize administrator over just last year, talked

to Billboard about what went down behind the scenes with the Pulitzer jury and how Kendrick

nabbed the award.

"In this case, I don't know specifically what the piece was, but in this case they were

considering a piece of music they felt had hip-hop influences and said, 'Well if we're

considering a piece of music that has hip-hop influences, why aren't we considering hip-hop?'

And someone said, 'That's exactly what we should do' And then someone said, 'We should

be considering Kendrick Lamar' and the group said 'absolutely.'

So then, right then, they decided to listen to the entire album and decided 'This is it.'"

The Pulitzer Prize for Music isn't the only award Kendrick's Damn has won.

It also received a Grammy for Best Rap Album, as well as multiple other awards.

It'll be interesting to see if another artist making non-classical or non-jazz music will

be able to grab the award next year.

That's the news for now, but for all the latest news on Kendrick Lamar, subscribe to

Complex News on YouTube.

For Complex News, I'm Frazier.

For more infomation >> Kendrick Lamar Makes History as the First Rapper to Win a Pulitzer - Duration: 1:28.

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Continuous integration and deployment using Azure Data Factory | Azure Friday - Duration: 9:11.

>> Hey friends it's another episode of Azure Friday.

I'm here with Rob, and he's talking to

me about Azure Data Factory and

some of the news stuff around

Continous Integration and Deployment.

>> Yes. So with Data Factory now,

we have added support for customers

to do Continuous Integration and Deployment

and do the industry leading practices to essentially

achieve their goal of moving their pipelines,

data sets, link services from one environment to another.

So generally, how it works for our customers

is that they have a Dev Data Factory,

they have a Test Data Factory,

they have a Prod Data Factory.

And developers are essentially

developing in their Dev Data Factory and

once they are done with development they want to automate

the process of moving from one environment to the other.

So with this integration that we

have done with Data Factory, with ARM templates,

and integration with VSTS Git you

can automate this entire process and do it.

>> Has this traditionally

been done in a fairly manual way?

>> Yes. This has always been manual.

Our customers would write

their custom scripts to achieve this process.

>> And no disrespect to data scientists or the community,

but is there the same process rigor

that we have in

the software engineering community in

the sense of checking my code,

I run my unit tests,

I do it in dev, I do it in test, I do it in staging.

There is a standard pipeline

for Continuous Integration and Deployment.

Does that exist in this community?

>> Actually no, and this is what

we are trying to do and we're trying to

automate that process into

end so that once they essentially

check-in in their dev environment

and they are comfortable in their test pass,

they can define their releases to

dig their code from one environment to another.

>> Sounds like a lot of what I call the administrivia.

>> Yes.

>> It is removed from you and put into this pipeline.

>> Yes.

>> So you're already creating

a data pipeline and we saw

how to do that with data bricks.

You're also now creating an operations pipeline

for the larger environment.

>> Yes, exactly. So we're allowing them to operationalize

their pipelines across environments

and how they can automate that process into it.

>> Cool. You have a demo.

>> Absolutely. So Data Factory Visual Tools are live

now and you can essentially

create your Data Factory

and click "Author and Monitor" tab.

Once you click your "Author and Monitor" tab and go to

your "Author" tab in your Visual Experience,

you can see your pipelines and we have

this new ability for you to

export your Data Factory as ARM template.

So you can click this button and

export your entire factory,

and this includes all the assets for your pipelines,

all assets for your data factory,

the pipelines and data sets,

the link services, their integration runtime,

the triggers, all exported as ARM template.

So once you export that as an ARM template,

we generate two files for you.

We generate the actual template

and we generate a parameters file.

So this template would be seen

across all environments and

you will have one parameter file for each environment.

So your dev environment,

your test environment and all these parameters

file contains is your connection strings,

your secrets, and all of that information.

So you can essentially now pick

this template and deploy it to

your UAT Data Factory and to

your Prod Data Factory and only thing

that you have to change is the configuration file.

So, you can again create processes to do it.

But what we've also done is that with

our Visual VSTS Git integration

we have defined a process on

how you can automate this end to end.

So right now I am in what we call S3 Data Factory Mode.

So if I do anything,

it goes and publishes

directly to my data factory servers.

But I can hook up a VSTS Git repo with my data factory,

so I can select the VSTS Git.

It automatically loads the tenants that I have access to,

I can select my Microsoft Tenant,

I can select the accounts that I have access to,

so I'm going to just pick out my account and it

automatically loads the projects

that are existing in your VSTS Git account.

So I'm going to select my Data Factory project and I can

create a new Git repo or I can use an existing one.

So in this case, I'm going to use

an existing one that exists and,

again, it is going to ask you that

which branch do you want to use for collaboration.

Most of the customers use Master as

the collaboration branch but it is totally

up to you if you want to use another branch.

And then you'll define your root folder and you check

this box to say that whatever

data exists in my data factory,

I want to import it to my VSTS Git account as well.

And all of these assets will be imported

as JSONs in your VSTS Git account.

>> That was my next question.

So, what we're putting into Git,

just to be clear if there's

any confusion for people who are watching,

it's the textual representation of the factory.

It's not certainly terabytes of data,

it's the description of the factory,

not the contents of the data.

>> Yes, it's the metadata. As we call it.

>> The metadata. Exactly. Just for people who aren't

familiar, the ARM templates,

or Azure Resource Manager,

is that ability to basically now I can say,

"File", "New My Data Factory".

>> Yes, exactly.

>> And dev and test and staging prod.

>> Yes, and we actually link you from this UX as well.

So you saw that I exported as an ARM template,

and you can click this import

ARM template link and all we are

doing is we are redirecting you to Azure Portal,

where you can import your template.

So you can select that exported template,

provide your configurations,

and just import that data factory

into whichever environment you want to do that. Right so.

>> When changes happen to the template in source control,

does that kick off a process and

then validate and rerun the factory?

>> Yes. So, right now when I

hooked up the VSTS Git account you can see that

a branch was created just now and in this branch all

your data sets integration runtime are defined as JSON.

So it's the text representation

of your entire Data Factory.

Now, what you can do while here is that you can define

or release and I've actually a

good visual for you to show this.

So you have your working branches in Git and

this generally we call that as feature branches.

You create your pull request

and push the stuff to master.

And once you're there in the master you

publish to your Dev Data Factory and,

once you publish to your Dev Data Factory,

we actually create ADF

publish branch in your VSTS Git report.

And once that happens,

you have defined a VSTS release

which has a trigger defined in it,

and the moment the ADF publish branch gets generated,

the trigger files and automatically takes

your entire text representation,

which is the JSONs for your pipeline triggers,

and take it from one environment to another.

So you can take it from dev to UAT,

from UAT to prod.

So that entire process can be automated by

defining VSTS release for it.

>> So you haven't just simply turned on Git integration,

you're actually coming with a

formalized process here almost

to Git flow specific to Azure Data Factory.

>> Yes and we have actually defined

this process end to end in our documentation.

We even wrote an Azure Blog for it.

So it's all published

today for our customers to take a look at.

We have the documentation,

we have the blog published,

which is listed step by step on how you can define

these releases and automate

this process end to end as well.

>> And would you recommend that anyone who is

an Azure Data Factory customer

today should definitely explore doing this?

>> Yes. Absolutely right.

Because Continuous Integration and

Deployment is part of

any enterprise scenario that you would look.

So, every customer has

different environments and they want to

do it for the purpose of source control,

for the purpose of access grant,

making sure that only certain people have

access to certain environments and it's

a very common practice to do

continuous integration and deployment

across their data pipelines.

>> So then people who are watching right

now who have a data factory, they can do this today?

>> Yes. They can absolutely do this today.

As I mentioned, the documentation is live.

The blog post is there in Azure Blog.

You can search for continuous integration and

deployment using Data Factory,

it will take you to this blog

and you can read all about it.

>> All right, fantastic.

I am learning all about

how to make continuous integration and

deployment a reality with

my Azure Data Factory here on Azure Friday.

For more infomation >> Continuous integration and deployment using Azure Data Factory | Azure Friday - Duration: 9:11.

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Des Linden, First US Woman To Win Boston Marathon Since 1985, Talks To TODAY | TODAY - Duration: 4:51.

For more infomation >> Des Linden, First US Woman To Win Boston Marathon Since 1985, Talks To TODAY | TODAY - Duration: 4:51.

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Lynda Carter, TV's Wonder Woman, To Megyn Kelly: 'You Kicked Ass' | Megyn Kelly TODAY - Duration: 17:56.

For more infomation >> Lynda Carter, TV's Wonder Woman, To Megyn Kelly: 'You Kicked Ass' | Megyn Kelly TODAY - Duration: 17:56.

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Jeep Wrangler Rigid Industries 20" Radiance LED Light Bar (1987-2018 YJ, TJ & JK) Review & Install - Duration: 6:22.

I'm Ryan from extremeterrain.com and this is my review and installation of the Rigid

Industries Radiance 20-inch LED Light Bar with backlight, fitting all 1987 and up Wranglers.

I'm gonna give installation of this light bar a two out of three wrenches.

This light bar is for those of you who want to run a 20-inch LED light bar on your Jeep

for auxiliary lighting, but also want something a little bit special.

This isn't just a forward-facing, projecting, white LED light bar like most of the others

on the market.

This has a backlight system built into it.

So, when you don't have those forward-facing, white LEDs on, this will still produce a glow.

The one I have in front of me is blue but this is also available in red, green, white,

and amber.

Even the Rigid Industries insignia on either side of the bar will glow in that same backlight

color.

So, as you can tell, this is going to be much more showy than your traditional light bar

and that sort of makes it a divisive mod.

Some people look at this and they say, "You don't need that.

That's not functional.

It's a little bit racy," and they don't like it for a Jeep.

But there's a whole bunch of you out there that are doing a build where this would fit

really well.

If you're doing a color-themed build, having a backlight might be a really nice feature

for you.

Now, this does throw a lot less light than, say, a Rigid Industries E-Series light bar,

although this is also a lot less expensive than those.

So, with this, you get more of a visual impact when that backlight is on, but you're not

going to get quite as much forward-facing light production as one of the more expensive

bars.

So it really comes down to what you're looking for on your build.

As far as construction goes, this housing is exactly the same as those E-Series lights.

This is going to be an aluminum finned housing with a black powder coat finish, a polycarbonate

lens, but once you get past the housing, everything else is completely different.

Those E-Series bars have two rows of high-producing LED lights that throw a ton of light.

You can get them in a couple of different beam patterns.

And if you get a combination beam, you have a flood pattern on the outside and a spot

pattern on the inside.

This has one row of smaller LEDs in the center.

And while it is still considered a combination beam, it does not have it broken up into flood

and spot.

Each one of the reflectors behind each one of the LEDs is designed to give sort of a

dual pattern.

So, you do get a spot with a little bit of diffusion around the outside, but it's not

as pronounced of a pattern as that E-Series light.

As I said, this is more about what it looks like on the Jeep than producing a ton of light

output.

Now, because this does have the forward-facing light and the backlight, this has a three-wire

pigtail built into it.

So you have a common ground and then you have a positive for either your forward-facing

lights or your backlights.

And you can have them both on at the same time but you don't really see a lot of the

backlight when the forward-facing lights are on.

So that does make the wiring of this light a little bit more difficult.

Most of your traditional wiring harnesses that you would purchase don't have the ability

to run a three-wire light like this.

However, Rigid does have one specifically built for the Radiance series light.

So you can always pick one of those up if you wanna make wiring this a little bit easier,

or of course, build a custom harness however you'd like.

As I said before, I'm gonna give installation of this light bar a two out of three wrenches.

Now, the nice thing about a 20-inch light bar is that there are some bolt-on mounts

available that won't require you to drill into the Jeep.

In fact, one of my favorite spots to put a light bar on a JK is right in front of the

grill, and there are a few mounts for that.

So, if you're using one of those mounts, the installation of the bar itself is no-drill

and very easy.

If you decide not to use one of the mounts anywhere you're willing to drill a couple

of holes, you can mount this light bar, whether it be on the back of the Jeep, the front,

your bumper, bumper hoop, or even a roof rack.

Now, once you get the light bar itself mounted, that's where things get just a little bit

more difficult if you're not comfortable automotive wiring.

As I mentioned before, this is a three-wire harness, so you will have to either build

a harness capable of running both of the lights that are built into this light bar, the backlight

and the projecting light, or purchase one specifically for a three-wire light like this

one.

As far as tools go to get this mounted up, you'll just need your traditional hand tools

unless, of course, you are drilling holes to get this mounted, in which case, of course,

you're going to need a drill, and you'll need your wiring tools unless you plan on purchasing

a wiring harness that is specifically built for a three-wire light like this one.

I would give yourself around an hour to get this bolted up.

And wiring this could take a varying amount of time, depending on if you're using a pre-built

harness or not, and how comfortable you are with automotive wiring.

There are LED light bars all over the spectrum as far as pricing goes.

And Rigid Industries is known for making some of the highest quality light bars that produce

a ton of light all at a very high price.

But Rigid will come right out and tell you that the Radiance series is more of a budget-friendly

series.

This is not going to produce the same light output as, say, an E-Series light, but it

does have the additional feature of having the backlight.

So this is really for a different crowd than those who are buying those top-quality, max

light output lights.

This is for somebody who wants it to look cool on their Jeep by having the backlight

lit up when they're at a show or when the Jeep is parked, but not somebody who's going

out on the trail and wants the maximum amount of light output.

However, this also saves you a ton of money versus those lights that do have more light

output.

So, again, it's really for two different crowds.

So, that's my review of the Rigid Industries Radiance 20-inch LED Light Bar with backlight,

fitting all 1987 and up Wranglers, that you can find right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rigid Industries 20" Radiance LED Light Bar (1987-2018 YJ, TJ & JK) Review & Install - Duration: 6:22.

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Web Demystified #1 - HTML - Duration: 7:16.

Hello! Welcome to a new episode of Web Demystified.

I'm Jeremie and today we're gonna talk about HTML

HT... What?

Basically HTML is a descriptive language that allows us to tell a web browser how to handle text content.

It doesn't make any sense, does it?

Nope!

Okay, we'd better get into some details.

HTML is the oldest language of the web.

Even though it took a few years to be formally defined,

the very first web page created by Tim Berners Lee was already using a proto HTML.

and if you're curious about it that page is still online

If you are interested in the history of HTML, Wikipedia is definitely your friend.

Here, we're gonna focus on the technical side of things.

HTML is an acronym standing for HyperText Markup Language

It is quite self-descriptive but that requires a little explanation.

Let's start with that markup language thing.

It just means HTML provides a system to annotate some plain text with tags.

Those tags add semantic value to any text that will be used by browser to understand how to handle that text.

Yeah, yeah, fine. How does it look?

An HTML tag is a small string of text made up of a pair of angle brackets

surrounding its name

on which you can specify further related information using attributes.

By surrounding some text with an open tag and a closing tag

you are creating what we call an HTML element.

And we've created a paragraph!

[hissing cat]

Once you have created HTML elements you just have to nest them in order to create an HTML document.

Here is the basic structure of such a document

Hey, slow down!

Where are all those tags coming from?

and what the heck is that DOCTYPE thing at the top?

All very good questions.

First, a quick word about that DOCTYPE line.

That line is a hint that tells web browsers that your HTML document is a fully-fledged modern HTML document.

If you omit it

browsers will considered your document like all those documents that have been created in the early days of the web

before HTML was standardized.

For backwards compatibility with those old documents they have a special display mode called:

"The Quirks mode"

This display mode is... well... quirky!

To make it short every browser has a different quirks mode for historical reasons.

Meaning you can face different behaviors from one browser to the other…

yes, more than usual.

So unless you are looking for trouble

or know exactly what you doing,

you should avoid that display mode.

In clear: just add that DOCTYPE line to your document and don't worry too much about it.

If you are not afraid of headaches, you can read more in here

Okay, let's get more practical: what elements can you use to create your own HTML documents?

HTML follow rules defined by the HTML Specification.

Which is maintain by the World Wide Web Consortium, a.k.a W3C

an organization that would definitely have its own video.

That specification defines all the expected behaviors of an HTML document,

which includes more than a hundred elements with all their associated nesting constraints.

That's a lot!

If you want to explore all those various tags and their individual behavior,

I advise you NOT to get into the HTML specification!

It's long, it's full of boring details...

It's not beginner friendly, It's not even web developer friendly

To be honest, it is not friendly even for the very authors.

It's a highly technical document made for browser makers.

Instead I suggest you take a look at the MDN Web Documentation

it will provide you with a complete, yet easy to understand, documentation of all HTML tags.

As a quick overview, there are tags for many things:

Document sectioning

Document metadata

Block text semantics

Inline text semantics

Images & Multimedia

Embedded content

Scripting

Forms

Data tables

and many more!

Yes, that's a lot but you clearly don't have to remember everything.

I don't!

To be fair, one of the cool things about HTML, it's how resilient it is.

It just means that even if you do make mistakes, it okay. Browsers will do their best to display something no matter what.

So, I would say that at this point you should just fiddle with HTML and have fun with it.

Wow, hold on a second. What about that Hypertext thing you mention earlier?

Yeah! Right.

Hypertext is just a fancy word to say that a HTML document can create a link to another HTML document.

Such link can be simply activated

either by clicking,

by touching

or by using a keyboard

to move to that other document.

That sounds quite ordinary these days

but in 1990, that was kind of revolutionary to be able to move from one document to the next without having to type its address.

To create such links, HTML provides the "a" element

You can use it like this,

and it will be rendered like that.

Note the blue color and the underline which are the default look and feel for links

Now, if you click on it your browser will load the document available at the address provided by the HREF attribute.

And that's all the knowledge you need to know to start understanding HTML.

Okay, let's recap.

HTML is a markup language that allows to structure a text in order to make it understandable by web browsers.

That HTML markup is made of elements formed by tags put around text.

All valid HTML elements and their nesting rules are defined in a specification maintained by the W3C.

Yes, it's that simple!

Frankly, HTML alone is a bit dull. We definitely need something else to make it pretty.

You know what, next up we'll talk about CSS.

Thank you all for watching this video.

if you want to learn more and start fiddling with HTML I highly suggest you have a look at the learn section of MDN

In the meantime, if you enjoyed this episode, do not hesitate to like it and to share it with your friends.

Spreading knowledge will definitely fill up your karma tank.

To continue the discussion feel free to comment down below or join me and my colleagues on Twitter.

And finally… Long live the open web, see you next time!

For more infomation >> Web Demystified #1 - HTML - Duration: 7:16.

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What to Know About Seat Height with Lowertown Bike Shop - Duration: 1:11.

(bright music)

- Your saddle height is really important

for your knees, and you should have a full extension

of your leg with just a microbend in your knee

on the downstroke if your saddle is in the right place.

You can tell your saddle's in the wrong place

if you start feeling your knees,

or if your hopes are rocking back and forth.

If your hips are rocking, it's too high,

and if you feel your knees, it's too low.

A common myth is that you should be able

to touch the ground with your feet from your saddle.

Generally, if you can touch the ground,

your saddle's probably too low.

So the best way to adjust the saddle

if it's not a quick release is to get an Allen wrench.

The Allen wrench goes into the Allen bolt,

and you can unscrew it.

Generally, a good way to decipher whether or not

the saddle is a good height for yourself

is to put it at the top of your hip bone.

Make sure it's centered with the top bar.

Get on and ride, and make sure you have

the full extension of your leg.

If it's still too low,

you might to adjust it a centimeter or two at a time.

For more infomation >> What to Know About Seat Height with Lowertown Bike Shop - Duration: 1:11.

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What to Know About Chain Lube with Lowertown Bike Shop - Duration: 1:08.

(whimsical music)

- To lube your chain, you need chain lube

and a rag.

If your chain is squeaky or squealy,

it's definitely time for a lube.

Now, to properly lube your chain,

you need to open your chain lube,

and we're gonna want to put one drop

of lube on each chain link.

You go all the way around every chain link

on your bike.

I also like to do it on the bottom

so it doesn't drip onto the frame.

And once you get each link lubed,

I spin it twice, and then I grab my rag.

I put my rag around the chain and,

very lightly, hold onto it to wipe away any

of the mess.

Usually, when you pull your chain away,

there'll be a lot of grease on your chain.

You don't wanna just lube your links

because if you don't wipe it off,

it'll actually collect more dirt

and debris, and your chain won't last

as long.

You should lube your chain every couple

of weeks to once a month, depending

on how much you ride.

And the more often you lube it

and keep it lubricated, the longer your chain life will go.

For more infomation >> What to Know About Chain Lube with Lowertown Bike Shop - Duration: 1:08.

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El horóscopo de hoy, 17 de abril de 2018, por el astrólogo Mario Vannucci | Un Nuevo Día | Telemundo - Duration: 3:31.

For more infomation >> El horóscopo de hoy, 17 de abril de 2018, por el astrólogo Mario Vannucci | Un Nuevo Día | Telemundo - Duration: 3:31.

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Even Death Has An Instagram Account - Duration: 3:24.

Even Death Has An Instagram Account

For more infomation >> Even Death Has An Instagram Account - Duration: 3:24.

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Ford 9" Rearend and Organization - Racing Tech Tip - RHRSwag.com - Duration: 1:02.

This is Ryan with RHRSwag.com here for a Tech Tip

Color code your 9" gears

How to keep competitors from catching on what gears you have

Tech guys are under cars and other racers try to take a peek

Stay ahead of the curve and color code your gears

All you need is different color spray paints

These are our gears from 500 through 633

Try different color combinations

Have a chart that is clear and makes sense

Make sure you have the proper set of gears too

RHRSwag.com Tech Tips

For more infomation >> Ford 9" Rearend and Organization - Racing Tech Tip - RHRSwag.com - Duration: 1:02.

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Julián Gil quiere que Marjorie de Sousa cumpla su palabra | Un Nuevo Día | Telemundo - Duration: 4:02.

For more infomation >> Julián Gil quiere que Marjorie de Sousa cumpla su palabra | Un Nuevo Día | Telemundo - Duration: 4:02.

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What to Know About Tire Pressure with Lowertown Bike Shop - Duration: 1:11.

(upbeat music)

- So on the sidewall of your tire,

which is this portion, every tire has a PSI,

which is pounds per square inch.

I always say pump to your max,

because the lower your tires are,

the harder it is to ride it.

We grab our pump.

If your pump does not have a gage,

and you're trying to figure out by hand,

if you can squeeze your tire at all,

it's about half pressure.

So it's supposed to be pretty rock hard.

So this valve is a Schrader valve,

which most cars have.

It's our most standard form of valve.

So we clip our pump head on,

and we pump to our full PSI.

Once we're at full inflation,

put your cap back on, and you're ready to go.

The other form of valve is called Presta.

They hold higher pressure air better,

which is why we're seeing them on more and more bikes,

and to allow in to pump your tires,

you need to unscrew this little cap piece.

When you're done, make sure to screw it shut.

For more infomation >> What to Know About Tire Pressure with Lowertown Bike Shop - Duration: 1:11.

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¡Hoy vence el plazo para enviar tu declaración de taxes! | Un Nuevo Día | Telemundo - Duration: 5:06.

For more infomation >> ¡Hoy vence el plazo para enviar tu declaración de taxes! | Un Nuevo Día | Telemundo - Duration: 5:06.

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Repeat Copy of How to beginner knit Crochet TURKISH Puff Stitch Hat Inclusive Screens & Cards - Duration: 18:19.

this will be the puff stitch hat I'm using four ply yarn and a size I or 5.5

millimeter crochet hook I'm going to start with a slipknot on my crochet hook

take the tail wrap it over in this direction I have a little loop right

here wrap it over the main strand of my yarn take my hook put it below the

Strand and back up the other side like that and this creates the slipknot make

a chain of 5

and then join this will be how the puff stitch is made I like to make one chain

and then pull it up and then work the puff stitch from there to eliminate any

type of seam wrap the yarn over your hook put it through the center of the

loop wrap the yarn over pull it through wrap the yarn over the hook put it

through the center wrap the yarn over on the back side pull it through wrap the

yarn over the hook put it through the center loop wrap the yarn over pull it

through wrap the yarn over the hook put it through the center loop wrap the yarn

over pull it through there will be a total of nine loops on your hook wrap

the yarn over pull through all nine wrap the yarn over and pull through to secure

at the top that completes the first puff stitch

I like to make one chain and then pull it up

wrap the yarn over your hook put it through the center of the loop

you

wrap the yarn over pull it through

you

wrap the yarn over the hook

put it through the center

you

wrap the yarn over on the back side pull it through

you

wrap the yarn over the hook

put it through the center loop

wrap the yarn over

pull it through

you

wrap the yarn over the hook

put it through the center loop

wrap the yarn over pull it through

there will be a total of nine loops on your hook wrap the yarn over pull

through all nine wrap the yarn over and pull through to secure at the top that

completes the first puff stitch we will work five more puff stitches through

this Center loop

chain one

chain one

we have three more puff stitches wrap the yarn over the hook put it through

the loop wrap the yarn over pull through wrap the yarn over the hook put it

through the loop wrap the yarn over pull through and you can see I'm pulling it

up like this so all loops are even wrap the yarn over the hook put it through

the center loop wrap the yarn over pull it through wrap the yarn over the hook

put the hook through the center loop wrap the yarn over on the back side pull

it through there are nine loops total on the hook wrap the yarn over pull through

all nine loops and then chain to secure now chain one between each puff stitch

we have two more to complete

now we're working on our last puff stitch

after completing all the puff stitches I'm going to work a single crochet in

the top of the first puff stitch and this is to join I want to end in the

center between the first and the last puff stitch just like that that

completes round one now for round two chain one and pull up high work the

first full puff stitch wrap the yarn over the hook put it through the space

wrap the yarn over on the back side pull it through wrap the yarn over the hook

put it through the space wrap the yarn over on the back side pull it through

wrap the yarn over the hook put the hook through the space wrap the yarn over the

hook pull it up wrap the yarn over the hook put it through the space wrap the

yarn over on the back side pull it through wrap the yarn over pull through

all nine loops and then chain there will be increases in each chain one space the

second part of this increase will be worked at the end now chain in this next

space work two puff stitches with a chain one between each puff stitch

pull through all nine loops chain now chain one work one more puff stitch in

the same space

wrap the yarn over pull through all nine loops chain now chain one for the space

there will be two puff stitches worked in each space for a total of twelve on

round two

now chain

now chain

work two more puff stitches in the next chain-1 space

work the second puff stitch

now chain

work two more puff stitches in the next chain-1 space

now chain work one more puff stitch in the same chain one space secured at the

top now chain this is the last increase

chain one

now chain 1 now we're around to the beginning and we need to work our last

stitch in the beginning

now single crochet with the beginning puff stitch to join

there are 12 puff stitches on round 2 now chain 1 pull up work the first full

puff stitch

wrap the yarn over pull through all nine loops chain chain one in the next space

work one puff stitch

now chained in the next space work two puff stitches this will be the increase

on round three there will be a total of 18 puff stitches with a chain one

between each one of them now chain work one more puff stitch in the same space

now chained in the next space work one puff stitch

Chane in the next space work the increase of two puff stitches so every

other space you're working one puff stitch and then two puff stitches for

the increase

in the next space work one puff stitch

continue around to the beginning working two puff stitches for an increase and

then one puff stitch in the next space there will be a total of 18 puff

stitches at the end of round three work the last puff stitch in the same stitch

as the beginning stitch

now work a single crochet in the beginning puff stitch to join there will

be eighteen stitches total round three now we're working on round four chain

one pull the loop up work the first puff stitch

chain one and when we get back around this will be an increase now work one

individual puff stitch in the next chain one wrap the yarn over pull it through a

chain chain one work an individual puff stitch in the next chain one wrap the

yarn over pull it through now chain one in the next space will be an increase we

will be working two puff stitches

wrap the yarn over pull it through secure chain work one more puff stitch

in the same chain one space

continue around with the same sequence of stitches working one puff stitch one

puff stitch then two puff stitches for the increase at the end of round four

work the last stitch in the same space as the first stitch

single crochet with the beginning puff stitch there will be a total of 24 puff

stitches round four there are no more increases so rounds five through ten

will be working one puff stitch in each space around for a total of twenty four

rounds five through ten you can add more rounds or stop with less rounds it's up

to you

and this is the pattern that I've had posted on my crochet blog for a while

but continue around with one puff stitch in each space for the remainder of the

length of the Hat

this is the Hat complete you can continue adding rounds if you would like

to make the Hat longer I'm going to add three rounds of single crochet working

two single crochet in each chain one space around

you

just continue on around to the beginning where you'll join with the beginning

stitch continue on around to the beginning there are two ways to work

this final round you can join or you can use the continual or spiral round

continue for three rounds or your desired length now I finished my band in

a continual round so what I'm going to do is skip the first single crochet in

the next single crochet I'm going to slip stitch to attach and this will even

out the edge you can see right here if I ended it like this I would have an

uneven edge so I need to skip this stitch slip stitch in the next stitch

wrap the yarn over pull it through one more time and I've already cut my yarn

pull it through give it a tug and it evens out the edge this is my puff

stitch hat complete

For more infomation >> Repeat Copy of How to beginner knit Crochet TURKISH Puff Stitch Hat Inclusive Screens & Cards - Duration: 18:19.

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How to Get Thicker Eyelashes Naturally - Duration: 4:32.

How to Get Thicker Eyelashes Naturally

Do you wish you had thicker eyelashes?

Worried that your eyelashes are not growing enough?

You're not alone.

Many people wish they had thicker eyelashes, to make their eyes more beautiful.

There are many reasons for thin eyelashes, like age, certain medical problems, missing

nutrients, an eye infection, or hormonal changes in the body.

Other reasons are rubbing your eyes roughly and not taking your eye makeup off at the

end of the day, which can lead to the delicate hairs of your lashes falling out.

The first thing to do when you're trying to make your eyelashes healthier is to take

proper care of them.

There are also some simple ways to help your eyelashes grow.

Remember that cures won't work the same for different people.

It may take a few weeks, or a few months, for the cure to work.

Also, you may have to try more than one before you find the cure that is right for you.

Castor Oil Castor oil helps eyelashes grow, and can also

fight bacteria that stop them from growing.

Take a clean brush or cotton swab and put castor oil on your eyelashes before going

to bed.

You can add some vitamin E oil to the castor oil before putting it on.

Leave the oil on overnight, and rinse it off in the morning.

You can also mix two tablespoons of castor oil with two tablespoons of aloe vera gel.

Put it on your eyelashes using a cotton swab.

Leave it on overnight, and rinse it off in the morning.

Try either of these cures every day for two to three months.

Olive Oil Olive oil can nourish your eyelashes, and

make them grow thicker.

It also helps keep the eyelashes dark.

Here's how.

Dip a clean, old mascara stick or cotton swab in warm olive oil.

Before you go to bed, put the oil on your lashes, like you would put on mascara.

Leave the oil on overnight, and rinse it off in the morning with lukewarm water.

Do this every day for a few months, until you're happy with the way your eyelashes

look.

Aloe Vera A great way to grow your eyelashes is using

aloe vera, because it has a lot of vitamins and nutrients.

It will also help keep your eyelashes moist.

Before bed, put fresh aloe vera gel on your eyelashes with a clean mascara stick.

Leave the gel on overnight, and rinse it off in the morning with warm water.

Or Mix together one tablespoon aloe vera gel,

one tablespoon jojoba oil, and one teaspoon of chamomile infusion.

Put this mixture on your eyelashes two times a day with a clean, old mascara stick.

Leave it on for fifteen minutes, and wash it off with warm water.

Follow either cure every day for a few months for it to work.

Note: Make sure to remove latex by washing the aloe vera gel very well before use.

Egg Because eggs have a lot of protein, they are

very good for growing thicker eyelashes.

They also have vitamins that help the feel of your eyelashes.

Beat one egg and one tablespoon glycerin into a thick, creamy mixture.

Put it on your eyelashes using a cotton swab.

Leave it on for fifteen minutes, and then wash it off with cold water.

Do this three times a week for a few months.

Green Tea Green tea has a lot of flavonoids that help

your eyelashes grow thicker and longer.

Make a cup of unsweetened green tea, and let it cool.

Use a cotton tip to put the green tea on your lashes, from the roots to the tips.

Let it sit for fifteen minutes, and wash it out with cool water.

Do this two times a day for two to three months.

Note: Make sure the green tea does not get in your eyes.

Coconut Milk Coconut milk has a lot of protein and fats

that make thicker, longer eyelashes.

It also gives your eyelashes a beautiful shine.

Dip a cotton swab in coconut milk, and put it on your eyelashes.

Let it sit for ten minutes, and wash it off.

Do this one or two times a day for a few months, until you get the look you want.

When trying any of these cures, make sure to be very gentle.

Don't pull out eyelashes when you're putting makeup on, or taking it off.

Make sure to have the right vitamins and nutrients, so your eyelashes can grow nicely.

You can take a multivitamin supplement, but make sure to ask a doctor before you do, to

find out what type and amount.

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For more infomation >> How to Get Thicker Eyelashes Naturally - Duration: 4:32.

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Basic maths for kids addition - learn mathematics easily | Creative Tangrams numbers 1-10 - Duration: 16:59.

Basic maths for kids addition - learn mathematics easily

For more infomation >> Basic maths for kids addition - learn mathematics easily | Creative Tangrams numbers 1-10 - Duration: 16:59.

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How to Grind a Tire - Racing Tech Tip - RHRSwag.com - Duration: 1:16.

I'm Ryan with RHRSwag here to show you an overlooked Tech Tip

How to grind a tire

Different discs, different speeds - find out which are best

7" grinding disc and a variable speed grinder

2000-3000 rpm and 80 grit sandpaper works great for us

We are trying to take the top glaze off of the tire

to get to the nice fresh rubber underneath again

This is an IMCA tire so we try to take the sharp edge off

off the crown of the tire for more side bite

RHRSwag Tech Tips

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