And now when the engine is finished, it's time to fix this clutch here.
Which is not totally busted yet.
But it feels really strange and the clutch engages maybe few mm before the pedal stops moving.
When it should engage at about middle.
Which normally tells that this clutch is almost done and can start slipping any time.
So now when I'm doing other fixes also, it's good time to pull out the trans and replace the clutch.
I have already taken all the bolts and other stuff off, so trans is ready to be dropped. But first lets see what kind of clutch I have for this.
And here is all the clutch stuff I managed to get.
So because that is cheapo winterbeater, I thought that I can just fine fix the clutch with used parts.
So all these are use. Which you may have already seen from this surface rust.
Which is only because these has been in storage for long time.
But if I remember correctly this is flywheel from 2 liter dual vanos engine.
And this is from 2.5 liter version.
What is good in these is that all this has been in car for really short time.
For example there is no wear that you could feel with your fingernail in this flywheel.
This clutch disk is also at the original thickness.
And also no wear on this either.
So good condition parts.
And the machining in this is still clearly visible.
So nothing wrong in these.
Of course for some performance vehicles the dualmass flywheel is not the best option.
But for daily driver it's just fine.
These normally cost new like 800-1000€ from BMW dealer.
But this whole lot wasonly tens of euros.
I'm putting better dual mass because that car has almost 400 000km on the clock so the original one is probably quite worn.
And I have two of these because I have another engine also that needs new clutch and flywheel.
And in that engine we totally melted the clutch so that really needs new flywheel also.
And good thing in these is that even thought these originally have the smaller 228mm clutch, you can directly install the 240mm clutch to these flywheels.
Only the disk and pressure assembly define the clutch size.
So this car now gets these and that other one goes to different car later.
But these go in now.
This should be simple bolt-on job. But I don't know why because m52tu don't have these as far as I know.
But this is SAC clutch which means Self Adjusting Clutch.
Some of these need to be installed with fancy tool.
But the BMW ones come with locking piece here.
So you can bolt this in normally and after that just twist off the locking tool.
But as you can see this has been installed to car once.
And when this has been taken off, it has "ruined" this and the self adjusting mechanism has come fully out.
The whole point of this self adjusting system is that the clutch would feel the same no matter how worn the clutch disk is.
So it should make the clutch lifetime longer or at least keep it feeling same for the whole lifetime.
Older clutches don't have this system.
But first I need to return this to base position and the make locking tool before I can install this.
As I said there is tool that allows this to be installed directly to the car.
But I don't have it and I didn't want to buy it for this only purpose.
So lets put this to hydraulic press and return this to base position.
And now we need to put this on the press so that this friction surface doesn't touch the press.
So this needs to be supported from the outer shell.
And I use regular bolts for that.
Is that on the right spot...
Yes it is.
So only the shell supports this thing. Not the friction surface.
Then I need to push this downwards.
And here you can now these springs. Which are fully extended at the moment.
But as new those are fully depressed.
So now when I have released the tension, I need to push these back.
Why wont you move.
damn you
And this should now.
whoah! Just like that.
Click to base position.
These are now locked like that.
So now this is at the base position.
I will pres this little bit just in case.
And now this is up here.
These springs are fully depressed.
So it's fully at the base position.
Which means that I could now use the locking tool. Which I don't have.
Naturally.
That could be re-used from some already installed new clutch.
But I think I will just simply...
Maybe bent that...
Well these are bit too long.
In any case I'm going to slip these in and weld them to the center piece.
And after I install this I'm going to cut the whole thing off.
But these are now too long.
ok...
Well...
Good idea but my rods are not though enough.
I need to try something else.
Now!
Old drill bits were the way to go.
Those are not going to work as drill bits anymore but those were shitty ones already.
So that is now locked to base position.
With this great locking tool.
So I can now install this normally.
And after bolting on this, I will just cut away those drill bits.
Which should make this all work.
So these are not really ruined if you need to take one off after it has been installed once.
You just need to lock these to base position before reinstalling.
As you can see these tabs are now up.
That's that.
And now we can drop the gearbox.
How the fuck this thing can be so stuck.
Well this is bit dangerous to do without transmission jack.
So that's the old clutch.
And let's take that off.
And that gearbox slipped in really nicely because I finally have proper clutch alignment tool.
Not a single new clutch has come with this but I 3D printed this one.
And it worked nicely.
Because the gearbox went in so smoothly.
Somebody had been nice enough to model this BMW clutch tool to Thingiverse.
So I will link that to description if someone else wants to print this too to install clutches.
And now while I'm here I will remove this retard CDV valve.
Which means Clutch Delay Valve and it needs to go.
It makes the clutch feel bit funny.
Normally I leave it here, if I don't need to work under car.
But I will now take that off while I'm working here.
So just open that.
This will leak some fluid out so the clutch needs to be bled.
But nothing serious.
And it's now removed. This goes directly to slave cyl without modification.
The valve is this small part.
I think that this doesn't even have anything mechanic inside.
It only seems to have small hole restricting flow.
Preventing fast clutch movements.
So you can't drop the clutch even if you want.
So only small hole in the line and nothing else.
But it's now taken car so that it wont make the driving awkward. So we can move forward.
While bolting driveshaft back I noticed one interesting thing.
I don't know if you can see it.
This 520 has aluminium driveshaft.
I was wondering why there is washers that these don't normally have.
But those are here preventing the bolts from sinking in to the aluminium.
I think it's interesting to know that this has aluminium driveshaft.
I knew that some e39's have aluminium one but I have only seen steel ones before.
And this is first. Doesn't feel much lighter than steel one.
But maybe that is still there for reason.
And now after the clutch is done but I did open the clutch line, I need to bleed the clutch.
To do so, you don't even need to touch the bleed screw.
You only need to sit into the car and start pumping the clutch pedal with your feet.
Something like this.
Just fully press it down and lift and after some time it has bled itself.
So that is simple thing to do.
No need to crawl under the car.
But how the clutch fix worked. Well now the pedal feels just how it should feel.
Previously the clutch engaged when pedal was pressed just tiny bit. Which felt really awkward.
And lifting pedal up quickly made it slip little bit.
So it was almost done.
But now it engages at about the middle point. which is somewhere here.
And it gets bit lighter after that.
So it works as it should.
So this job was success.
And we can move on.
And next thing to do is the rust repair and that is so big job to do so that I need to do separate video about that. So this video will end now.



















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