The Bibbulmun track is essentially one of the world's greatest long-distance
walks it's just over 1,000 kilometers long or 620 miles from Kalamunda in the
Perth Hills to Albany on the south coast. The southwest of Western Australia is
renowned for its incredible diversity of plant life. Three-quarters of the 11,000
species that grow in Western Australia are found in the southwest and most of
these plants grow here and nowhere else on the planet. (Tim McGrath:) "Well to me, the thing about
the Bibbulmun Track is having a sense of independence.
You really reduce all of your issues down to a small amount of things you
have to think about and you're carrying everything you need with you as you go."
The darling Plateau is bordered to the west by the Swan coastal plain and to
the south by the Scott River plain and Leeuwin naturalist coasts part of the
ancient granitic shield rock the Yilgarn shield which is thought to be two
thousand seven hundred million years old. The plateau is dissected by steep river
valleys and the landscape is scattered with granite outcrops and rolling hills.
Granite is the bedrock covering a large area of WA
and represents some of the oldest rocks on earth. Keep your eyes open while on
the track and you may spot many of Western Australia's wild animals. Many
are threatened however most are making a resurgence because of the number of
foxes being reduced by poison baiting. This program is called Western shield
extending over more than 3.3 million hectares of land using 1080 poison a
manufactured versions of a naturally occurring poison called Gastrolobium.
This poisonous pea is helping reduce the destructive fox population. Our native
animals have evolved with these plants and are not harmed by 1080.
The Noongar people are divided into about 14 different groups both socially
and linguistically each of which inhabited a particular tract of country.
Each local group had access to a selection of different ecological
habitats in accordance with a long tradition of territorial occupation the
Bibbulmun was one of these groups. Their country was generally recognised to
extend from Pemberton to Albany. The Bibbulmun Track is named in honor of the
Bibbulmun people to recognise their practice of walking long distances for
ceremonial gatherings. The southwest of Western Australia is a highly
diversified and complex mineralogical region boasting a wide selection of
strategic and industrial minerals these include Tin, Gold, Bauxite, Coal
Silica Sands and Lithium to name but a few.
Large sections of deforested land seem to be endless and even greater parts of
the area is gated which for me is a great shame to see parts of the Southwest
closed off to mining.
It's day 1 hour 1. Heading to Fremantle to pick up Tim, picking up the Google camera
and then we're going to North Bannister where we're meeting the other guys and away
we go.
The main purpose of my visit to the Bibb this time is to help capture 360 footage
of the track for Google Earth Street View.
I must admit, i'm like most people and so far I've only been on Google Street View
to look at my house, houses I've lived in and my family and friends houses.
However with iconic natural locations all around WA already mapped and soon
the entire 1000 kilometer length of the Bibb on Street View I'm sure I'll be
using Google Earth much more efficiently in the future. The entire length is to be
recorded by Bibbulmun track volunteers and we are merely one of many teams
undertaking this project. We're the second team to film down the Bibb the
first team started at the Kalamunda Terminus and hiked through to Gringer
Creeks campsite an impressive 142. 2 kilometers away and it's here at Gringer
Creek that we begin our journey. Dan: Here we are, got the Google camera on my back and
we're about three or four k's in on day one. So far
touchwood I don't think we've got anything wrong and we've got a guy Chris
with us who did the walk first part from Kalamunda with us so he's giving us some
advice on the things they learnt the little nuances with the camera we've
named him Wilson he hasn't really said much.
He's the thing he's a bit shy but he'll get to know us and I'm sure he'll open
up" Tim: He's looking a bit surprised.)
Dan: Well he's just had all different people join him but he's um
he's not that helpful up hills."
So you might have noticed i'm in a car now. We're in a team of four, our team
comprises of four people ranging in hiking experience. I'm the least
experienced in the group no doubt about it.
Our team leader is Tim who is joined by Hedley and Lari, two seasoned hikers who
have completed the track multiple times and are actively involved in the maintenance
of the track. They're a valuable addition to our team
and joined us at short notice. Our backgrounds are all very different but
what brings us together is our connection to the bush after all humans
evolved from the environment. The towns and cities we live in have only been
around for a few hundred years in fact the normal way of life as we know it is
completely artificial. We come from nature
genetically, physically, biochemically emotionally and spiritually. We're are all
connected to nature so it makes sense that people from all walks of life find
their identity and sense of self out in nature. That's why I make videos of the
wilderness, why the natural wonders of my birthplace has such a profound effect
on me.
So I started off in the first group walking and now I'm taking the car up to
meet the team of walkers now we've got two cars in the convoy which makes for a
nice bit of a break and I get to have a bit of a before fourby, it's not exactly much
of a challenging track but so far we've covered 12 K's so halfway another 12 to
go obviously and that'll be day one and it's 2 o'clock now aiming for 5
o'clock would be a nice time we can possibly do it beforehand but yeah
there's no massive rush and it's going well so far touch wood,
me saying that is probably not a good thing the weather's been good
nice and cool it's probably in the low 20s at the moment nice. The Bibbulmun
track volunteer program relies on the bushwalking communities and the Bibbulmun
track walkers in particular to commit their time to assist in the
maintenance and delivery of the foundation's programs and services. There
are around 300 volunteers that help to maintain the track, if you would like to
volunteer or would like more information check out the Bibbulmun track website
I'll link it in the description.
Tim: "It's a fantastic environment, there are very few places in Western Australia
that I know where you can very quickly connect to the country that is the
southwest so you can begin to appreciate the wonders of the country that we have
here. Dan: For me nature brings back a balance into my life. After spending two weeks
now on the Bibbulmun track plus countless time exploring other places
around WA I've seen a vast amount of natural
wonders deserted plains, pristine coastlines, breathtaking rivers and
waterfalls, untouched bushland and sunburned plains the wilderness for me
is the elixir of life.
We've walked probably about 8k's now on the second day and it's me and Tim's turn to
take over walking our friend Wilson. It's gonna be warmer today and we've got a
really big hill climb right at the end of our walk which is rumoured to be (anyway)
the hardest part I've not walked it but people that have say it's a bit of a
bit of a beast. Just heard a noise off to the side sounded very snaky but the
weather being warm like this there is the potential of seeing a snake which would
make good footage for you lot anyway.
You go through little islands of different trees and then it opens up and lots of
low bushes and trees spread out and then it goes back into forests again which
adds a bit of variety to the walk. It's definitely warming up at the moment
nothing too bad though, i just like whinging.
Tim's turn to carry Wilson now so I'm the buddy guy carrying the one pack
that's shared amongst the both of us and it's a lot lighter than Wilson.We're not
actually carrying all that much because we've got support vehicles so we have all the
heavy stuff in there. Tim: "We're about two thirds the way up to the top of Mount Wells." Dan: It's not um it's not flat but uh we're we're at the what we
thought was the top but it goes back up again and then away from the end
It feels like we're at the top and I can see the cars. That was fun.
We're currently near Boddington hiking up Mount Wells also known as Wourahming Hill it's
the highest point in the region it was for this reason that this Hill was used
as a fire lookout ironically the tower and it's adjoining hut were destroyed by
fire in 1961. The structures were rebuilt and the living quarters now serve as a hut
for Bibbulmun hikers. This place even has a wood stove for those of you culinary
hikers. Amazingly the fire tower is still used occasionally and although
visitors cannot access the top of the tower the view from the accessible first
level offers great views of the Darling Scarp
as well as nearby gold mining operations
but is an easy 14kms. You got three hours yeah
so 9k 3 hours? Yeah it's easy and then if you're okay...
Tim: "There are very few places in Western Australia that I know where you can very
quickly connect to the country that is the southwest."
This is tick number three that we've discovered after getting out of the car
and it's probably not the last. There we go. Now the trick is to not to use tweezers
is what's advised. Tim: "This is under duress I'm doing this."
But you want to make sure
they got the two little nippy things so bring up here Tim and put him up here.
There's another one that we pulled and if you squish him
give him a... and what you want to find oh he's still going you got the two so you
can see them they're too little teeth at the front whatever they are that's what
digs in and that's what you don't want to be stuck in your leg so there you go. Tim: "So we will now let
him loose in the wild back to his home country oh there we go see you later mate.
This is the height of tick season yesterday we were parked and we're just
getting something to eat and there were only tall trees around us and they
were literally falling down onto us so I pulled three off my leg yesterday and
then when I was having a shower I found two more so I got five but no doubt I'll
be pulling more out of my skin by the end of the day. There's not a lot you can
do apart from not be here that'd be about the only any way of escaping them. Onwards!
it's nine o'clock temperatures beautiful it's cooler today than it has been on
the other two days hopefully it stays like that.
This section of track is definitely one of the more scenic parts of the trip so
far we have umm we didn't actually walk one of the iconic bits the other guys in the
group walked that up the hill so I haven't got any footage I got some one the
drone of the hill. We've definitely lucked in with this section of track,
it's flat and scenic which is kind of rare. Normally you've got to walk up a
hill to get something very scenic makes for a nice break but apparently the
whole trip today is flat and there's a rumor that we may be done by lunchtime.
Tim: "There's something really independent about walking a long distance and
certainly overnighting in different Hut's. This is the Jarrah Lodge where we've
been staying and first time I've filmed it and the last day were here so we're all
packed up ready to go Tim's just loading the car and oh it's Wilson, morning Wilson
Wilson: Oh hi Dan
Dan: How you been mate?
well I think I've got a bit of cash in the car so i'll see what i've got.
How have you been going so far? Wilson: Oh you know I got a tick on Monday, the boys managed to get it off OK.
Dan: Is it itchy?
Wilson: I put some cream
on it, look umm don't stand there too long mate you're putting off the customers.
Dan: Yeah oh I'll crack on then mate and I'll see you in the car then shall I? About 20 minutes okay?
Wilson: Oh Dan, Dan... How do you do an E7?
There ya go that's Wilson he's ready to go packing up the car and sixteen k's
today. Ok we're starting day four final day, it's beautiful around here we've just
driven through Lane Pool, so we've driven probably 45 minutes
further south to film this bit so we're not filming obviously in complete
chronological order of the track. We've got 16 k's.
Then back to Perth the next team take over and we give up Wilson. I've sort of gotten a little bit attached
to the guy really. He grows on ya. Despite the fact you've got to
carry him everywhere does none of the work for ya.
Dan: We come from a wild planet. We are the wilderness. We find ourselves in nature
however no science can reproduce it no composer can match it nor can a great
writer describe it. We are all born from this earth and we will all one day go
back into it.
Murrey River down there she's what we've been following
all day.
For many different reasons not everyone has access to places like the Bibbulmun
Track. It's with technology like the Google camera, social media platforms
like YouTube, cameras that can fly attached to drones, cameras that we can
fit in our pocket that are attached to our phones that places like the Bibb can be
experienced by everyone and people from every walk of life can walk in the steps
of someone from another world.
So last day looks it's like it's gonna be our
most scenic day and with 16 k's to go there's three of us
today we're down one team member but we've got it all
down pat now that i'm sure we're gonna manage it's only 16 k's so divide that up
and it's a leisurely stroll for all of us really and at this temperature it
is a bit hard going apparently with Wilson because the growth around here
is very low and covering the track and Wilson when you're wearing him he end up
being about eight foot so if you are 8 foot and walking the Bibbulmun
watch your head.
The scenery is definitely very different here and it's almost got that down south
feel to it. A lot of ferns and damp which for the last few days of our walk has
been anything but. This is a very nice change and a very good way to end our trip.
Tim's just reached the camp with Wilson he's gonna radio when he's off and head
in there. This is Murray Hut and this is a really really nice location because
you have riverfront real estate so if you needed to take a few days rest with
sore feet, this would be one of the places to do it.
my turn with Wilson and this is quite a different experience walking with him in
this kind of bush because there's so many overhangs and everything's still
damp from the rain last night so we've had a few problems with his um
lenses we've just given them a clean trying and keep the water off hopefully it
doesn't interfere with the picture quality too much. It's still very
dense this part there's growth all over the track poor Wilson's getting himself a
nice shower also got me thinking it is important to bring some kind of eye
protection when you're walking particularly when it's starting to get
more sort of undergrowthy like where we are today because you don't always
see little sticks poking out and the last thing you'd really want is a
scratched eye or worse. So yeah if you already wear glasses well don't worry but if you
don't wear glasses bring a pair of sunnies and that way you keep your eyes
a bit protected. Just a bit of a breather. Fly's are out I don't know what it is with me and
flies I hate them you know they've been around all my life and I've never never
got to the point of just accepting them can't stand them but uh yeah Tim's a bit
behind so I'm just having a bit of a rest and waiting up for him I'm starting to
sweat now. It's hard work going through thick bush with Wilson it's
almost as hard as when you're on an uphill but we're nearly done.
On the last leg now had a swapover and i'm not buddy for Hedley and then we're done
that's it about five more k's to go we hit Driver
Road and game over back home.
Tim: The thing we often forget about the Bibbulmun track is it's a wonderful
volunteer organization so it's something that has been created for volunteers by
volunteers and it's growing in terms of its
influence and its importance to the lifestyle in Western Australia
so it's a tremendous institution it's a wonderful environment and it's a
unique experience, so i'd recommend it to anyone.
Isn't life about sharing and if it is how lucky are we to be alive right now
to be the first to experience a truly global connectivity the entirety of the
Bibbulmun will soon be online so dust off your boots start planning using
Google Earth I'll link it in the description. If you need gear I'll put a
few links and hiking stuff there that I think you might like, subscribe, like
share and check out my Etsy store for some Christmas gift ideas haha I had to throw
in a cheeky plug well it's my show!
So there we go that's the the end of Wilson. Well it's not the end of Wilson
it's the end of our adventure with Wilson so thanks for watching if you
enjoyed this episode please consider subscribing and click the bell so you
don't miss our next adventure check out my Patreon page if you have a look at
that that'd be awesome and I'll see you again really soon on the next Epic
Drives Western Australia hey maybe it might even be a fourby trip next time who knows
See ya!
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